Maybe more concise, but never more articulate and pleasant.
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Thank you, sir. You are very kind. I try to be pleasant. To be fair, I have been snarky at times but try not to make a habit of it.
Not being Snarky ? Where is the fun in that ?
LOL Well… there’s always The Hunting of the Snark: An Agony In Eight Fits written by Lewis Carroll who wrote Alice In Wonderland. Offhand, I don’t recall if it contains any references to motorcars but it definitely has Snark. 
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Indeed insurance could be more expensive on the older car due to safety related equipment absence, but it begs a question of how much more expensive?
If it is $1, or even $20, it would not be a big factor in grand schema of things.
That implies the added risk for older cars is spread among other drivers. I can believe that risk is shared by drivers of like vehicles, but not by everyone. If shared among similar vehicles, the risk pool is much smaller and the cost per car in the pool is higher than if shared among the general population.
I guess I missed that one. I have never been known to not be a smart aleck and has gotten me into trouble a few times. I usually mean no malice, just trying to lighten things up a little. I mean we all used to say “eek a freak from Battle Creek” but guess he didn’t think it was funny. Or the guy named Sundae that I called Saturday in the alley. Then 500 times on the black board. No sense of humor. Scars scars scars. When you are small though you learn to be wiry and quick on your feet.
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For 6 months it was about $75. Not bad, eh?
Kathy , there are over 100 posts on this thread and all of your posts are seen by everyone. So what was 75.00 ? People really don’t want to wade through the whole thread to see what you are talking about.
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Most cars nowadays do not really break in until 50-100, 000 miles. Quality cars like the Camry will easily go trouble free for 100, 000 miles or more with adherence to the mfr’s maintenance schedule or good maintenance in general. I dare that say any car today that is well-maintained should last quite a long time. My older car is a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6 auto. It has over 300,000 miles from buying it brand new. The only thing changed in the high ticket area were the struts. Other things were regular suggested interval changes like oil/filter, trans fluid/filter, brakes. etc. The car still runs as new the day I drove it off the new dealer’s lot. The motto is true…take car of your car…and it will take care of you.
Although buying a good car with around 100,000 mi. is pretty safe, if it was me…at this time (during the economic depressed pandemic), I would opt to buy a 2021. Wait until around July 5 to early August. Most of the 2021’s will be out then at the new car dealerships. The new car dealerships will be just about giving these new cars away because of the pandemic slowed economy. Note: Never buy a new car in the same year as new. Always buy a new car the year ahead. For instance, I bought my 2015 Hyundai Sonata on July 5 2014. Two reasons for this: 1. I can drive the car for a year and a half before it turns 1 year old. 2. You can get a better deal over the so-called year end model sales. Why? Because their would be a lot of manufacturer incentives for dealer and/or buyer which have not been used…and also dealer incentives for buyer that have not been used. These incentives are the hottest when the cars are the newest. Thus for you, a 2021 instead of a 2020. Lastly, you might want to get a buyer’s guide on getting the best deal when buying a new car. There are a lot of savvy tricks and hints out there when buying that new car.
And the dealers will always be 2 steps ahead of those who think they know all the tricks.
And some how I don’t see dealers giving away 2021 vehicles in July of 2020 if that is what your confusing post means.
There is something laughable about a naysayer. They never put the effort in, when given good advice to aid them in whatever they may need help in. But they always need to say nay. My first though on these folks who are naysayers when given tried and proven advice…is that they are too stubborn lazy or too stubborn ignorant to try it.
When I bought my 2015 Hyundai Sonata in July 5 of 2014, I actually paid less for it than the 2014 model. This is very easily done. You just need to do your diligent research on dealer cost, all manufacturer selling incentives for dealer, and all dealer incentives to buyer. Note: manufacturers bonus their dealers up to $600 or more for the expense of keeping their cars on their lots; new cars cost money just sitting on a lot awaiting to be sold. If you buy a 2021 in 2020, the dealer gets to pocket the whole bonus given by the manufacturer…because there was 0 expense of days on the lot before being sold. That means even if he sells the car at his cost…he still is ahead of the game from the manufacturer bonus. Now that you know what bonuses the dealer is getting from the manufacturer, you have more bargaining power. The next step is to have knowledge of all advertised manufacturer and car company bonuses for the car. Now that you have all that information on hand…save it for later. Knowing what the dealer paid for the car and the msrp, you can see the profit margin…and decide how close you want to get to his cost, I usually allow a $300 profit for the dealer. But guess what? If it is a 2021 in 2020, the dealer is making $300 plus that $600 or so for time on the lot from the manufacturer. So, the dealer would be willing to make a immediate sale to get his $300 profit from you, while retaining the full manufacturer’s bonus of time of car on the lot. But you are not done yet. Remember all those advertised discounts you found? After you both have agreed on a deal, now tell dealer to apply the various discounts. Remind the dealer that those discounts are from the manufacturer or the car company, and has nothing to do with deal made between you and that dealership. In fact, avoid any discussion about any said discounts until after deal is made between you and that dealer.
If you arm yourself with all the information on how to get your best deal when buying a new car…then you will…and despite the dealer.
Never assume that the new car dealer is in charge. You have the money. They want it. That makes you in charge.
The amount discounted from my insurance for buying a new(er) car.
… per 6 months of insurance.
What??? Because the economy is in the toilet, you think a new car is a better deal than a 10-year old car with 100,000 miles? Is that in real money, or Monopoly money? In real money, the new car is going to require much larger monthly payments for more years to pay off, much higher insurance costs, etc. Tell me again how this is such a good deal, if you are someone who keeps a car for a long time?
What became of your Nissan with the JDM engine and transmission? I would expect at least ten years of service from any good car.
The Nissan was sold for the purchase towards a new car. The day it was advertised in the Recycler was the day it was sold. First buyer to come and test drive it, bought it. Any more questions on that? BTW, the JDM you are referring to is not the service used to get my engine and trans combo put in the Nissan. As you were informed, the service I used was different and much cheaper. And they do not deliver the parts to you with the extra cost of transportation. You simply bring the car in…drop it off…come back in a few days and everything has been installed and tested. And as far as labor for the work, it is not so cumbersome or requiring only a mechanic as you seem to imply. They are not building something from scratch. They are merely swapping out parts; everything is intact for that. The only extras are the tans fluid, oils, and seals…costs around $25 extra. BTW, I was at their shop when a freight train (that drives on tracks bordering and entering property) dropped off tons of these imported used engines and transmission. I can see how dealing in bulk and cheap labor is how they make a profit. One mechanic may be retained for special problems or circumstance. The main work force is all cheap labor.
The car ran perfect at the time of sale. Buyer was amply satisfied.
There is no better opportunity to get a new car at bargain prices than now. With the pandemic and lost in the economy, the new models just arriving will be sold at dealer loss prices. Dealers can not afford to keep what they can not sell.
It is just food for thought for one considering the right time to buy that new car.
I would like to clear something up on how to get the best new car buying deal. This is mainly for novices of new car buying that have not done this rodeo before. This pertains to applying all discounts after your agreed upon deal with yourself and dealer/seller. Please do not sign the contract until all discounts have been applied to and in addition to the agreed deal. Another words, your bargained deal with dealer/seller minus the named discounts is the final deal contract that you sign.
You asked so as a person who will only buy new, the primary benefit is the knowledge that said car has always been properly maintained, worn parts repaired with quality parts and never abused.
The payoff is that said cars, 15 years and well over 100,000 miles later, continue to look and run like new, long years after after they’re fully paid off and fully depreciated.
The prevalence of owners failure to perform even basic early maintenance was clearly demonstrated when MB started providing free dealer maintenance on their leased cars because so many leasees weren’t doing it. Further with a used car, even with a clean Carfax and meticulous records, you have no idea how many times that car has been run low on oil, overheated, had body parts replaced with Chinese tin, been run hard or sat parked and ignored for months, all of which can mean expensive repairs down the road.
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