I would have assumed that a 2.5L 4 cyl would use the same injector as a 3.0L 8 cylinder
From time to time, a push for standardization comes down. Of course, there are priorities, and some things benefit the manufacturers more than others and those would be worked on first. .
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I would not think that. Injector capacity is sized by the power created by each cylinder it feeds.
A 2.5L 4 needs each injector to fuel 613 cc…The displacement of one cylinder.
Each 3.0L 8 injector needs to fuel only 375 cc of cylinder. This assumes a simiar power output from each cylinder. In the case here, the V8 makes 20% more power than the 4 with 20% more displacement.
If that V8 has a turbo and makes double the power of the 4, the injector needs to almost double in size to fuel that extra power.
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Sorry for my confusion. I guess you mean “nope” referring to clearance level and everything else seems to substantiate poor planning by management (officers) since you referred to a colonel.
I used to buy my plugs, points, filters etc. from Kmart. All ac oem stuff. History.
From my experience though with the army reserve unit during vn, we had activation orders. However all of our equipment was to stay put locally and the equipment already in place would have been used. What point would there be in shipping our stuff over seas? Even during camp, tool boxes stayed home and the equipment at various forts was used.
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Same here, even for my current truck. Not just Kmart, many department stores stocked tune-up and repair supplies for many common vehicles, esp true for Fords. If I were planning a tune-up job for my truck I’d buy a single package I’d find hanging on the store’s shelf, which included new points, condenser, & ignition rotor. I think it cost around $5. I don’t recall buying the spark plugs at the dept store , but maybe I did. The last time I purchased a car part at a department store was a replacement headlight bulb for my Corolla, Target, mid-90’s, $12 .
I have a very old set of Noid lights like that, most of them are obsolete. I think I completely missed the opportunity to use the throttle body injector Noid lights, three on your list that you will never need.
If you want to save money on tools, don’t buy Noid lights, use a standard test light or voltmeter/HZ meter.
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I had the clearance level, but someone near the top of the food chain decided to not reveal what analyzers or methodologies would be used.
It would be nice if all of the drivers controls were the same from one vehicle to the next, especially for people who drive multiple vehicles. Less likely to have an accident while hunting for a switch or knob, or the right spot on the touch screen.
But standardization inhibits innovation. But then I think the high/low switch needs to go back on the floor, the left foot doesn’t have anything else to do these days.
You have to be joking.
Not joking. If you are on a rural road, going around a corner and suddenly there is another vehicle coming in your direction. You need to switch back to low beams, but the wheel is turned and your left hand is now some distance from the stalk.
The time it will take to switch back to your low beams will be considerably longer than the time it would take to push the button on the floor with your left foot.
My auto high beams will switch them.
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Unless you are talking about retrofitting them to the floor on older vehicles, most newer vehicles already come with auto dimming head lights, I know my daughters 2017Corolla already does, and funny, we have nothing but curves and hills when driving back roads around here and it took my daughter about a year and a half to realize it has auto dimming, as she could dim them before it bothered the on coming vehicle or the auto dimmer dimmed them, I also have not had that issue driving my non auto dimming vehicles, I still own a vehicle with the floor dimmer and I hate it… BYW she drove for a few years not having auto dimmers…
I guess if you still have good reflexes you don’t have these issues as you can see the on coming vehicles lights in time to dim yours as well as they do…
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Also, something not mentioned:
It’s much easier, via the stalk vs the foot button, to politely double-flash another driver that they may proceed ahead of you.
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My car does. But I turn it off.
I never use high beam ever. High beam illuminates road signs too much and irritates my eyes. My night vision is very good. I see people on the road every night with their high beam on, though, and I as approach, their high beam automatically dims.
Cool feature.
It was cheaper to incorporate the high beam switch in the stalk than keep it on the floor. In snow country though it did get its share of slush and if you had heavy boots on more difficult.
I don’t mind a certain level of standardization especially on parts, but today it is hard to tell the difference in one brand from the other. Not something I like.
I condemn the elimination of sealed beams as an astronomical cost to the public
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