IMO, word of mouth is the best way to find a mechanic.
As for sellers, if you just tell them that you know little about cars & want to ask a mechanic to help you look at a vehicle, any decent, honest person should be fine with that.
I personally own a 4.3L Chevy S-10 and have found it to be a very solid and reliable truck. I know of people with the smaller and underpowered (in my opinion) 2.2L motor in the S-10/Sonoma series and have great luck with that one too. 300,000 miles on a well maintained engine (either 4.3 or 2.2 is not uncommon). For a little truck, this thing is a tank. It has been through some stuff but the best has to be when I once hydrolocked the engine in a creek. I got out in standing water in my boxer shorts, removed the spark plugs and blew the water out, put the plugs back in, and it fired back up. I changed the oil, oil filter, and air filter once I got home and have seen no il effects. The engine is still smooth as silk and burns no oil. I give my vote for the S-10/Sonoma series.
I also know those with the Ford Ranger series and people love those too. I personally don’t have a lot of experience with these trucks but I don’t think you could go wrong.
Both these trucks are common as dirt so repair parts are common as dirt. I haven’t found the S-10 to be too hard to work on with the right tools.
Be aware of what trucks are common in the area. Some areas won’t have many imported brands so getting parts/service for those might be more difficult. It isn’t that the imported brands are bad as many are quite reliable but you can get Ford and Chevy parts just about anywhere.
I have never been a big Dodge guy. It seems like everyone I know with Chrysler products has had problems. I don’t mean minor and annoying problems. I mean BIG stuff like the engine and/or the transmission. There seemed to be a few years where some of their engines would sludge even if you changed the oil daily.
If seller isn’t too happy with you for requesting a mechanic inspect the truck, that might be a clue. You can’t expect a “perfect” report on a $3,000 truck, what you are looking for is major issues. A compression check can tell you if the motor is “tired”, leaks can be detected and some are minor and others could be trouble. Tests for head gasket issues should be done, a bad head gasket is lots of money to fix. Broken, loose, and or missing suspension parts can be dangerous. Checking the brakes for function and depth of the linings will tell you the condition of the brakes.
If you are new in an area you can check with AAA, they keep a file of recommended mechanics and ask for feedback from members who use them. There is also a mechanic finder on the home page of Car Talk web site. These pre-sale inspections are not “free” so expect to pay $60 or so.
Thats great. Thanks!
I’m finding almost no toyotas and nissans in the lubbock or amarillo areas. Is this a sign that these trucks are more sought after or simply just because very few are bought in these areas? Basically is it because they’re super popular or because no one owns them?
why do you need a truck? didn’t you say you’re a grad student that might take it out on the weekends and otherwise just around town? man when i was in gradschool, i was poor and would want to get the best mpg car i could afford. I miss my F-150. I understand that big trucks are cool, but there’s gonna be a lot more out there for that price.
Well, there’s one thing I didn’t mention in the fear of being judged too hastily… Im an art grad student. Over the years (whenever I actually had a car) I existed in sedans and small suvs struggling with squeezing in camera tripods, canvases, and a whole world of strangely shaped accessories, pieces and tools.
I’ve always promised myself that as soon as I could, I would buy a truck so I could actually move things without having to draw up schematics on how things will fit. Plus, I have this romanticized idea that being isolated in the dessert for 5 years will be the perfect opportunity to start building my own eccentric furniture as a form of meditation (at least thats the plan).
@FrankDonato, if its transport space you’re interested in, I’d actually think about a minivan. Odd though that may sound once you pull the seats out of a standard 7 passenger van you have two things - one is basically a pickup truck bed. The other is a roof. I understand that it is desert-ish - but I doubt you want all of that art stuff in the back of a pickup during a rainstorm. Older minivans also have fairly low resale values, so they’re fairly easy to get in the 3K miles range.
As a bonus, your first building project can be a platform for the back. I looked at a van once where the owner had built one - simple 2x4 + plywood construction. Underneath was storage. The top of the platform was his bed whenever he needed one.
I’m not sure if this is what I would do - just food for thought.
Oddly enough there is part me that finds that very appealing. Its sounds good except for the fact that I would be driving a van. Maybe I just need to get over it. I’ve already notice a number of vans for sale in the area. I thought about a wagon like a Subaru. Honestly that would be perfect but alas, they’re harder to find than toyotas and nissans.
One good thing about buying a hatchback or minivan in West Texas is that it will be unpopular, and you will get a better price. Also, you could find something around DFW or Oklahoma City and drive out to Lubbock. It’s not that far. At least not far in western terms. If you insist on a pick=up, you will probably need a cap to protect your wares.
Given your needs, I wouldn’t equate a minivan with a wagon - especially the small-ish ones like the Subarus. The inside of a minvan with the seats removed is cavernous. The wagons not so much.
The 92 stepside seems to stand out ahead of the rest. You might drive it and get a seat of your pants opinion of the truck. From the list I would assume that AC is not a critical issue for you.
But if a very basic Ranger shows up in the area it might be worth considering.
The OP writes “Most of the driving will be confined to a distance just outside of walking distance for things such as groceries. The occasional road trip will be a hit on the wallet but it’ll still be worth having (i think)”.
I would advise:
Spend $600-$700 on a solid commuter bicycle, plus maybe $250 for lights / lock / rack / bags and of course PItlock skewers, so you don’t have to worry about locking the wheels - it’ll save on the hassle.
Save the rest and rent a car for the weekend road trips.
You can fix virtually anything on a bike with basic tools, the parking on/near campus is far better than with a car or truck, and even unexpected repairs are cheap.
I’d expect “buy American” was the rule in West Texas and you won’t find many Toyotas and Nissans there. The minivan might fit your needs well, but I don’t see a reason to bail on the dream of an old PU. If $3000 is your total budget then spend about $2000 for the truck and hold onto about $1000 for repairs.
UPDATE… So I’m here in Texas. Still looking and I’m noticing a lot of craigslist post that mention that the vehicles has a “clean Texas title” and then there’s a few that says the car doesn’t come with a title. Please forgive my ignorance but how do I handle the title issue? how do I know I am being provided with a real title verses a fake? or is that a non-issue?
I can’t help you with the real vs. fake issue. I can tell you that in most state you don’t want to get involved with the hassle of not having a title signed over at the point of sale. In my experience, if it doesn’t have a title its only good for parts or scrap.
Second that. If you are buying a vehicle to drive it, you must have a title signed to you at purchase.
Okay, so I got a 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport and a Title! Now the question is on this title there is an a space for “previous owner” on the top left side and under it is a computer printed version of some dealership’s name (not important). Then there is a “owner” space and under it is a computer printed version of the man I am buying the truck from. under that is a signature line that says “owner” The guy signed on the bottom of the front and on the back but not in that “owner” line. I was told there is where I am supposed to sign as the “new owner”
Does this sound right or wrong?
This is a question about the laws in your state. The best place to ask is at one of your state’s DMV offices.
In My Home State The Secretary Of State Or DMV Office Strongly Recommends That Both Buyer And Seller Come To Their Office Together. They Will Be Sure The Sale/Transfer Is Done Correctly.
If that’s not possible then they have some other recommendations. Check the state’s DMV office to see what they say.
CSA
So the adventure continues… I bought a 2000 mitsubishi montero sport. I brought it to one mechanic in Lubbock (one with good reviews on this site) They checked the truck and it was decided the truck needed new brakes and an alternator belt.
I went to another place just to check it again out of general paranoia. The second place (recommended by a professor) told me I had a “MAJOR” oil leak.
I don’t see any oil on the ground which means either there is no leak or I’m driving with no oil. I put in one quart and only noticed a quarter-sized pool the next morning.
I guess the questions is: Who the hell is right? What do I need to do in order to feel comfortable knowing someone will deal with me straight?