Idle trouble please help!

OMFG this car is really starting to piss me off. How about some background information, you never know what will be important and honestly I find more information is b information in situations like this.

I have a 1990 Honda Civic LX sedan. I believe it is the 1.6 ltr engine. Since I have owned it (about a year) I have replaced the following.
timing belt
distributer cap
distributer roater
plug wires
exaust manifold
O2 sensor

This brings us to about a month ago. Now note that the car has always had a low idle (about 750 rpm) and since I have owned it has had a ghost idle, car revs with no pressur on the throdle cable. recently it started idling rough at stops. A friend of the family told me this was most likely a alternator problem so I replaced it. NO HELP. I was doing some research on the web and talking to some people and everything seemed to point to air in the coolant lines (coolant was low so I topped it off and bleed the system) OR a dirty IACV. I went and got a can of carburetor cleaner and cleaned that. Actually this did help for a little while ( about two weeks) then the problem came back and with a vengeance.

When the problem came back I looked under the hood. I noticed that the line to the IACV had water around it. I loo0ked closer and realized that I cracked the coolant line coming out when I had taken it off so I replaced the line cleaned the IACV AGAIN and put it all back together. This should have, in my opinion solved the problem again, actually it did not help anything.

Now the problem is intermittent. Meaning it dosent do it all the time. BUT it is getting worse meaning it does it more often now. I think there is a possibility that the IACV is BAD all together, which would explain why it helped a little in the beginning ( it was dirty) then got worse (it finally broke after I cleaned it???) but I don’t know and the part costs 80 bucks. which dosent sound like a lot of money until you realize I have a kid to sup[port and I live on unemployment since my last employer went out of business. Now I have the 80 but its 80 of my last 110 bucks and if that aint it im pretty screwed. I have a friend that knows more about cars than I do and he told me to check the vaccume lines going to the intake manifold. I checked them no visiable cracks. I do hear what sounds like a vaccume leak (pressurized air coming from a line) coming from the air lines near the master cylinder and power stearing fluid resavour. I felt up and down the lines and cant feel any air. I have what I can only assume is a hot air exaust of sorts coming over the top of the radiator and it may be coming from that but I don’t think so. I need help. I know a little about cars but I am a computer guy not a car guy. If you tell me the name of a part I can go get it from the store and generally find where it goes and replace it if I wouldent need special tools. but I do not have special diagnostic tools for cars. my questions are below. My check engine light did come on for the first time tonight even though I have been expeariancing this problem for a month or so. Like I said it is A 90 so mechanics wanna charge 100 at least for a check engine test and I don’t have that .,

What are the likely culprets for this problem?
dose it sound plausible that it could be a bad IACV?
Is there a easy way to track down a vaccume leak that any dummy can do without special tools?

You have been through a laundry list of replacement parts and that is a good start. What is left? clean the MAF and pcv valve is a start, cheap solution at least. If you really think it is a hose replace them all at 50 bucks max you will know it is not the hoses.
" I do hear what sounds like a vaccume leak (pressurized air coming from a line) coming from the air lines near the master cylinder and power stearing fluid resavour " I think you have the source!

The parts replaced were mostly due to unrelated issues. a 1990 Honda civic does not have a MAF sensor but I will look at and clean the PCV tomorrow. Do you think I should replace the IACV since it did help cleaning it in the beginning?

No I think if you hear the sound of a vacuum leak you need to fix that first, be it hose or master cylander booster if applicable

If you suspect vacuum leak and booster, check the booster and check valve with a vacuum gauge. A vacuum tester is even better. Boosters can leak internally.

Autozone or Advance Auto will scan your codes for free and you can post them here for help. You can pinch off or plug the vacuum line and see if it stops the noise and fixes the idle.