yes, answer this question please.
If you have only had it a weekend or so, the dealership you bought it form may take it back. Some have a generous “test drive” period to ensure customer satisfaction. They may not have this, but you should definitely ask.
A number of questions need to be answered.
First is the “a while” question.
Another might be how much did you pay for the Mazda and how much was financed? I assume financed since you still have the Fusion and most people do not have the full amount in cash to do this so the lender is going to have a say in this.
If you’re upside down on this deal then ouch. You might read this which is a partial cut and paste from a NJ attorney’s web page.
Many people think they can cancel any contract within three days when they buy a car at a dealership or they finance a car at the dealership however this is not accurate. This is not a recitation of New Jersey law. But this is a common misunderstanding or misapprehension of what the contract rules are under New Jersey Law.
You made no real mistake, you’re just having second thoughts. The Mazda will fulfill your needs as well or better than the Fusion. You’ll probably need to come up with major cash to unwind this deal.
You know what, I’m going to hold off on selling the Mazda. Just as much as I was impulsive in buying the car, I’m might be too rushed to sell it now. I’m going to spend some time with it and see if I feel different.
If I keep the Mazda, I would be pained to sell the Fusion though because it has such a low market value but such a high personal/sentimental value. I bet this is common.
Thank you.
" [quote=“NYBo, post:17, topic:173918”]
How long is “a while” and how many miles have you driven it?
[/quote]
“yes, answer this question please.
If you have only had it a weekend or so, the dealership you bought it form may take it back. Some have a generous “test drive” period to ensure customer satisfaction. They may not have this, but you should definitely ask.”
I have had it less than 70 miles but it’s been about 3 weeks now. I’m going to take everyone’s advice and keep it longer to see if I come to like it.
I drove a 2010 Fusion from my university’s fleet to another college where I gave a presentation. I was impressed with the Fusion. My impression was that the Fusion was a very good car. However, it is not the only car. Mazda has a good reputation. Your Mazda may turn out to be as good or better than the Fusion.
+1
Impulsive decisions are rarely good decisions.
Ironically, the Mazda 6 and the Ford Fusion shared a lot of design work back in 2010. Ford and Mazda have since broken off their joint design and production agreements.
I wouldn’t get too sentimental about your Fusion, sell it and move on.
I say again that you should have full coverage insurance ( Liability - Collision - Comprehensive ) .
The Fusion is older and more worn. As the saying goes, “don’t love something that can’t love you back.” This is the time for logic, not emotional attachment.
Usually when someone pays with a certified check, the check is of such a great amount that its proven the account has enough money to back the check.
So if the vehicle was paid in full, full coverage insurance isn’t required.
Tester
I’m not sure that certified checks are important today. When we bought our last two cars, the sales manager said they didn’t want a certified check, only our personal check. We wrote a check for more than $35,000 for the Odyssey last year. I suspect that the dealership has an arrangement of some sort with financial organizations to check on line for near immediate confirmation that the funds are available. Of course, they copied your drivers license and have your address. They know how to find you.
Never get sentimental about an object. That’s just a variation of my usual advice, which is “never love something that can’t love you back”.
I drive a 2018 Mazda 6 and also own a 2014 Fusion. I have also owned a 2012 Fusion, similar to the 2010 model in question here. The 2018 Mazda 6 is quieter, safer, more luxurious, and more fun than either Fusion. If you bought the turbo Mazda 6 then it is even more fun, but even the base engine is pretty peppy and way better than the base 2.5L in the 2010 Fusion.
As a Mazda owner since 2012 I can tell you that they are very reliable and easy to maintain. Also, they are easy to work on if you are a DIY kind of person. Don’t get caught up in the emotion of getting rid of your old car. You will end up loving your Mazda soon enough.
Your answer is all of the above:
The alternative is selling it yourself and since any sane buyer expects a clean title, means retitling it in your name and paying the sales taxes.
Either way you’re looking at a painful “haircut”.
Not necessarily. If the OP got a loan from a bank or credit union, they would issue a certified check.
No, they would issue a Cashier’s Check.
A Certified Check is one of your own checks that has been “certified” by your bank to have sufficient funds reserved for its payment.
As per a legal dictionary:
certified check–A check issued by a bank which certifies that the maker of the check has enough money in his/her account to cover the amount to be paid. The bank sets aside the funds so that the check will remain good even if other checks are written on the particular account. Like a cashier’s check, a certified check guarantees that it is immediately good since it is guaranteed by the bank and the recipient does not have to wait until it “clears.”
By contrast, here is the definition of a Cashier’s Check:
cashier’s check–A check issued by a bank on its own account for the amount paid to the bank by the purchaser with a named payee, and stating the name of the party purchasing the check (the remitter). The check is received as cash since it is guaranteed by the bank and does not depend on the account of a private individual or business. Cashiers’ checks are commonly used when payment must be credited immediately upon receipt for business, real estate transfers, tax payments and the like.
I know they’ve fixed this since, but the 2010 Fusion has cruise control buttons on lower left of steering wheel. I bump the off button every 5 minutes. Irritating. Would not have one unless it was my beater car just for that reason.
That cruise control ON and OFF buttons on the lower left has been SOP for a long time with Fords. Bad design that apparently no one thought through or ever chose to fix. My Lincolns are the same way and the slightest brush with the hand during driving kicks the cruise off. If the buttons were reversed; no problem.
As for the certified/cashier’s check angle, there’s always the possibility the OP did not identify the check correctly and if that bank holds the note then they are going to want full coverage on it. Failure to provide full coverage usually means they are going to call in the note because they do not want someone driving around in their (bank owns it until paid off) property running the risk of it getting whacked. Cars are depreciating assets as it is; much less one that has been T-boned.
Maybe not really an oddity but in the original post it is stated the dealer bought the car from a woman in NH and that came across as a bit unusual. Unless that means the dealer took it in trade and the title was only reassigned with the woman’s name still on it.
I’m almost certain that the 2020 Fusion changed it for the better. I don’t know when it was changed, but when I test drove a 2020 it was redesigned. 