I am not sure if extractor works for this top screw because it kinda curves up right near the screw. Don’t you have to put the extractor on the screw and push it all the way down?
If you look at the picture, on the right side of the screw, it kinda curves up.
I’m not sure what they are called but there are several varieties of torx that look similar. I think you are using the wrong one. Tester would know. It’s come up before and the wrong torx will give a sloppy fit.
I got 2 of them out by using a T30 torx socket so I think it is correct. It fits perfectly on the torx head. The last one is stripped so there is some extra space on the head.
I was going to mention the torx plus but someone beat me too it. Do yo know someone who welds or is there a weld ing shop nearby? Most, if not all body shops have welders. You get someone to tack weld a grade 5 bolt to the top of your torx screw and then use the appropriate socket or wrench to remove.
All good ideas above.
just a thought. if the other bolts came out pretty easy, you could take a cut off wheel and make a slot in the head. then put a large flat head screwdriver in the slot. clamp a vise grip on the shaft of the screwdriver to turn it out.
It would not be my first choice on how to remove it. just another idea.
It appears the threaded hole is in the latch. Since the latch is being replaced anyway, I’d guess the easiest method is what Nevada suggests above, just drill the bolt head off. Worse case thehole in the door gets a little enlarged, that’s what washers are for.
If that approach is not viable for OP’s specific situation for some reason, maybe not possible to position drill, and all else fails, I’ve had success for that sort of stubborn screw to just grab hold of it end-on w/vice grips, then put a screwdriver between the jaws to twist it out. Filing/dremmel’ing a couple of flats first would make that job a little easier. A dose of rust-busting thread penetrant (Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster) the day before is worthwhile too.
Unless the bolt is cross-threaded or otherwise jammed into the threaded hole it will be free to spin once the head is gone. Drill the head off the screw, there will be nothing holding the threaded shank to make it tight, it should screw out easily.
Another vote to just drill the head off and remove the old latch.
It appears in the first images that there is blue thread locker on the bolt. Just another reason to not even mess with removing the stubborn bolt.
What would concern me more is the damage to the door metal above the latch. It appears the door is sagging and allowing the striker to hit above the latch. The hinges probably need attention as well.