Besides an autobody shop…try an Audio Installer. Most around here offer that service.
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Contrary to popular opinion, on a 13 year old car I’d again suggest a mechanical inspection from a competant mechanic before doing anything further to eliminate any mechanical issues.
There’s an assuption that the increase in noise was the result of the body repair but unless the problem was immediately apparent I’d look further.
First a good mechanic and then a body shop.
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Seems like it was right after the repair.
“First a good mechanic and then a body shop.” This is the most trouble-free I’ve owned in 60 years.
Most of my driving is in town and under two miles, but a couple days ago I was on I-35 for four hours. The next morning, checking under the hood, I saw absolutely no loss of coolant, oil or brake fluid.
The noise I hear is objectionable at higher speeds, 60 and up. There were a few moments on I-35 when I was doing 80. Which felt like 30 in many of my older cars (1950 Chevy, 1952 Ford, etc).
I plan this week to take the car to a body shop and will report back what I learn.
“Seems like it was right after the repair.”
Right. And is why I’m convinced the problem is in the door(s), not mechanical.
Seems like it is related to the door repair; unless you had a Lexus as a loaner when the car was in the shop and getting back in the Venza felt noisy.
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It’s possible the door is ok, but the opening the door fits was slightly distorted. Pillar or sill plate needs to be straightened, etc. .
Best wishes with the body shop visit and it actually may be the souirce of your problem but …
1.Just because you noticed the problem after the repair doesn’t mean that the repair is the actual cause.
- Referral to a specialist before getting a diagnosis from a generalist can sometimes result in unnecessary costs.
My point is that money spent with a good, independent mechanic who can accurately diagnose the specific problem, can actually save you time and money by eliminating unnecessary work.
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In the past two days I’ve gone to three body shops. All pointed to the same gaps on the door, seen in the attached photo.
One shop gave me an estimate of $630, and I’d guess the others would be in the same range. No shop took the panel off the door.
So because road noise is a factor only when I’m going 60 mph or faster, and because most of my driving is in town and my trips under two miles, I’ve decided to do three things:
- Not have a body shop touch the car.
- Seal the gaps seen in the photos with some kind of white silicone that comes in a tube.
- For long trips on the interstate, put a foam ear plug in my left ear, the one closest to the door. My wife tells me I need to keep the right ear unplugged in order to hear a siren, and I can’t argue with that.
Thanks to all for your input.
If that is what they call a repair I would never go back to that shop.
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WOW!!! That looks like a Facebook/Tic Toc 1st timer how to video for body work repair…
I would have been completely embarrassed if my repair turned out like that, one reason I DON"T DO body work… Gezzzz…
Have they ever at least heard of seam sealer???..
Hell drug smugglers do a better job after hiding drugs in vehicles of hiding the repair work…
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Looks like you’re getting close to the source.
Before using sealant, I would try covering the gaps with tape and try to discern if that has made a diff. (Do a reversible experiment before doing something hard to undo, or that may have unforeseen negative consequences.)
Keep in mind that there may be something awry under that door panel, too.
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That, and after seeing the edge seam, I wouldn’t be able to resist removing the exterior trim piece to have a look see. If there’s a seam between panel pieces, I have a prediction for you… 
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“Before using sealant, I would try covering the gaps with tape and try to discern if that has made a diff. (Do a reversible experiment before doing something hard to undo, or that may have unforeseen negative consequences.)”
Great idea, one that hadn’t occurred to me and makes a lot of sense. Thanks much.