Back in the good ole days, @the_same_mountainbik, when men were men and gasoline was 19.9c. I grew up in the 60s patching a lot of the great classics like Ford Falcons, Plymouth Valiants and Studebaker Larks with 1bbl carburetors and breaker points. And most were 3 speed manuals that could be pushed off to start. But kids these days are so smart that they couldn’t drive those cars.
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I guess you are making a dig at the young people of today. Times have changed and working on cars is not the same as it was years ago. Granted cars are much more complicated now so tinkering is not really as easy. But they are more dependable.
I see some of the projects that are being done by some of the young people and I am really impressed.
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@RandomTroll, I can’t guess what kind of quality you could get for $114 but if you have never rebuilt a carburetor before now your Aisan would be a terrible place to start. As for the price of the rebuild kit you must also consider carburetor cleaner and while spray cans might work ideally a dip tank cleaner is needed.
@Rod_Knox You might be right about kids being to smart or in two cases I know of never have seen a old car with points before I had a set of old breaker points laying around that they saw & was very curious about how they worked. I just wished that I had an old distributer around to show them how they worked.
My grandfather skinned mules - I wouldn’t know where to start.
You can start at the heels and work up or at the neck and work down… But maybe your grandfather used a whip to figuratively skin them. My dad grew up on a farm plowing with mules and I understand they were intermittantly difficult to start hot or cold.
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That. The Army drafted him in WW1 to skin mules in Europe.
My dad grew up on a cotton farm in Mississippi and was determined to never again chase a mule once he was grown and left the farm. It was a struggle but he was successful. Mules have a terrible but well deserved reputation.
The last carb rebuild kit for my truck cost $22 as I recall, last summer. I’d rather pay $10 of course, but $22 seems very reasonable for all the cool stuff you get.
Yes. They jam-pack it in, so it is a little on the indecipherable side for us diy’ers, but for pro-mechanics familiar with the terminology and variations in carb configurations there’s enough information to get the carb up to spec. Diy’ers can do it too, with some help of the experts here, patience, & commonsense trial and error. Just don’t do what a recent called on Car Talk did, forget & leave an old sock in the intake manifold … lol …
fyi, here’s a link to an assortment of carb-kit rebuild instructions. The version they have for the 2100 looks pretty much identical to what came w/the kit.
That was interesting looking at the Corvair instructions. I remember rebuilding the carbs on my 61. In fact I think I have done kits or multiple kits in every car I have owned with a carb. I never found it that difficult if you follow the instructions and keep everything clean. A factory manual though is very helpful which I usually had. Now its just small engines but the one on my snow blower is just an R&R. Nothing much to replace so I have one sitting on the shelf for $25.
How about a real answer? The Walker part number is # 15827 $34.99 at OReilly Auto Parts
The last carb vehicle I owned was my 84 GMC pickup. I had rebuild it and I was amazed how many different carbs they had for that vehicle that year.
There were 4 different models…and each model went through at least 5 different changes throughout the production line for that year. The part number stamped on the carb was the only way to get the proper kit.
Earlier vehicles I worked on from the 60’s and 70’s - much easier and less choices.
My Dad told me of plowing behind a mule near West Plains, MO when he was 8 years old. When I asked him what crops they produced? He replied: Mostly rocks.
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Rocks rise when soil freezes and thaws; you get a new crop every year. In ‘How the west was won’ the Karl Malden character, leaving a New York farm, called it a rock farm in Stone County.
I had a 1979 Toyota truck and 1983 Corolla and got some carbs from junkyards and rebuilt a few. In each case the brand was Aisan - molded right into the casting.
Of the 3 I still have, all have a thin metal tag stamped with 5 numerals, hanging from one of the screws that holds the top casting onto the main body. 2 have a number/letter combination stamped into the side of the main body, down low. One has it on the side of the main body, up high.
Those numbers might be helpful, but most likely knowing the year, model, and engine (22R likely) should yield a suitable rebuild kit.
One carb part that failed me more than once was the AAP (Auxiliary Accelerator Pump) diaphragm. As I recall it was not always included in a rebuild kit, but was available separately. If it fails the engine runs very rich at idle. That may be behind your RPM increase. I ended up disabling the AAP system - pinching the vacuum hose to the AAP diaphragm housing does it - and found the engine ran better. You might do well to try that before going any farther.
Another part that needed special attention was the accelerator pump diaphragm. It is leather and needs to be soaked in oil, to keep it swelled up and in complete contact with its bore.
Aaah, the memories. I learned a lot from and very much enjoyed getting that neglected truck on the road for a good many years, before the frame broke, right behind the cab. Watch out for that one!