We’ve been told the pickup needs a new carburator. However, 2 dealerships we contacted won’t do it. One dealership stated just drive it 'til it dies.
We love our pickup, it only has 100,000 miles, and we have a hard time accepting there isn’t a fix for this.
The truck is 29 years old. Most mechanics younger that 45 have probably never worked on carbs. Plus, 84 was in the dark years of emissions, and these carbs are horribly complex. The guys used to Webers, Rochesters, and Holleys just don’t like to touch them.
My best advise is to look for a 2-bbl Weber carb conversion. It will cost a bit upfront due to the conversion plate and linkage, but will be easier to tune and easy to rebuild in the future.
BTW, Toyota’s official name for your truck is ‘Hi-Lux’. The Taco name wasn’t used until the 1995 model year.
JT Outfitters, off road supply house, has a Weber carb conversion kit for $300. This could be cheaper and more reliable than a rebuilt Aisin carb from who-knows-where.
You can still get a remanufactured carb for this pickup. They aren’t particularly inexpensive but you can get them. Try Rockauto. I still drive my 1984 fuel injected SR5 Toyota pickup. In the USA, I don’t believe they were officially still called Hi-Lux that year or later. I could be wrong but at the time I bought mine new the pickups were just called pickups.
Dealership? No way. You need to find the oldest, crustiest independent mechanic out there who remembers how to work on carbs. Bonus if he looks like Tommy or Ray.
Sorry I took so long to get to this.
Having owned a couple of Toyota Pickups, a '79 and an '89, I happen to have a bit of familiarity with these carbs. And, frankly, there are guys here who also know a lot about carbs. Exactly what is the truck doing (or not doing) that is causing them to say you need a new carb?
I hope you see this and get back to me. These carbs have some peculiarities that are easy to deal with, such as an accelerator pump lever that binds up with wear and stick in the fully applied state, and I might be able to get you going without breaking the bank.
You might find a marine repair tech in you area would have enough knowledge to work on any carbs as ANYONE. It’s probably what many do most. If you could get the parts, I would look to one of these guys. Even small engine repair shops that handle outboards and older inboards are worth a try.
Tacoma? Not in 1984…Then, they were simply called Toyota pick-ups…The 20R-22R engines will run forever. Forget the DEALER, they have no love for you anymore…But a good old-time mechanic will have you going in no time. Toyota sold MILLIONS of those trucks so rebuilding or replacing the carburetor is NOT the death knell…
You beat me to it Caddyman…l had an 89 but they were FI by then. Personally, I would move up to a more recent model with FI. But then, I’m rich !!
I have a 1990 model that’s still carbureted…
Dag, my '89 was carbed. I believe it was during that year’s production that they changed to FI.
I had a gussied up for that time… 89 x-tra cab 2wd with a 3.0 L V6…I bought it used from a Honda dealer in 1991 and I don’t have a clue when it was made (in late 88 or 89). It was a great truck to drive my daughter and gear back and forth to college. One of the few trucks I ever had that rode like a car. So if yours was still carb, it may have been the non FI 4cyl.
Mine was a 4-banger. I believe the '90 model I-4 was FI, so it would appear that they went to FI on the V6 and followed with the I4.
I had a '79 pickup with 20R engine and over the years replaced a couple AAP diaphragms, ca. $10 each, on the Aisin carb and once took it apart and put it back together with a rebuild kit, ca. $30. Later I disabled the AAP system by plugging a vacuum hose and it still started fine and ran better.
But first things first: what are the symptoms that lead you to a mechanic, who leads you to a new carburetor? There are probably simpler alternatives, but it all starts with a thoughful diagnosis based upon evidence.
Sorry took so long to get back. Computer access dificult.
The truck (22R engine) was backfiring, less power and running rough. The Dealership said “needs carb/ARP bad.” They disconnected and plugged the hose from the VSV, stating this minimized the backfiring. Finally they said the parts are no longer available. The second dealership just said enjoy it while you can. We continue to drive it, but it is still rough, not much power on hills, and stalls at stops.
Thanks for all the help.
They offered both carb and F.I. for 2 or 3 years during that period…Depended on trim level…
I rebuilt a 1984 Toyota carb on a Toyota with 150,000 miles. It wasn’t fun but I did it (lots of little parts). It turned out that it was the choke, which I replaced with a manual choke for $12. The car ran another 100,000 miles with the rebuilt carb and the manual choke.
Like bloody knuckles, I rebuilt a carb (1979 Aisin for 20R engine) and can report it was very engaging and ultimately very satisfying.
Some parts of the carb needed special attention beyond the cleaning and reassembling: the AAP (auxiliary acceleration pump) diaphragm was cracked and needed to be replaced. This part is still available if you seek it out. Or, block it off to disable it: it’s under a dome-shaped metal casting on the side of the carb, held on with 3 screws, with one vacuum line attached. Replace the diaphragm, and plug or pinch off the vacum line, to prevent overrich running. The choke mechanism can be dialed to the setting you want. I don’t remember the specifics. And the most crucial problem was a solenoid attached to the carb: it was dead (apply/release 12V to see if yours clicks.) I found one that worked at a junkyard. That made a big diff as far as overrich, backfiring, etc.
Another cause for hot shutdown at idle or non-start esp.when hot is the pickup coil, AKA sgnal generator, inside the distributor.