I can bet none of these ran “extended oil change intervals” of 10K miles, spare 20K miles.
4 Likes
Agree with that… oil changes are cheap compared to new engines.
1 Like
Every 6 months ?? Sounds like a waste of money . A lab really says 70 to 150K ? On some vehicles that could be 10 years between oil changes or more.
1 Like
My observation has been that for the cars that are older and have tendency to burn some oil, the further I move from 3K miles, the oil gets burned faster. So, there is a wear factor for the oil IMO. I have not bothered with oil analysis. Most of the cars I have now are GDI, so I stick to shorter oil change intervals. If I am changing the oil, the filter get changed too, costs me ~$27 with synthetic oil.
+1
To quote our late friend, Mountainbike:
The idea is to extend the life of the engine, not to extend the life of the oil.
9 Likes
Miles or kilometers?
Must puthe Letsuck on ramps.
From the filter canisteremove the small metal canister drain disk.
Screw in plastic tube which opens a valve andrains oil from the canister.
When fooled thathe canister is empty, unscrew the canister.
Wipe up the oil which spilled out of th"empty" canister.
Make a messtruggling to pull the oil-soaked dirty filter element out of the canister.
Remove canister’s used “O” ring, clean canister well, lubricate the big “O” ring and fit into it’slot.
Insert new filter element and screw canister into thengine block.
Clean bottom of canister and install new small rubber “O” ring and lubricate it.
Remove plastic drain tube and tighten on canister drain disk.
It is not as complicated of a 60 second procedure as you make it seem, you might get better at replacing the filter with practice.
That makes no sense. The plastic drain tube is removed and discarded before the filter housing is removed from the engine. Both O-rings are replaced at he same time while the filter cap is in your hand. 15 seconds to replace both O-rings and install the filter drain plug.
Have done it many times for manyears.
Better to have the canister secure to the block.
Otherwise too easy for ito slip out of grasp and get dirty again.
I’m underneath doing all of this using toilet paper to get everything pristine.
You’d lose that bet. I’ve been running 10k+ OCI for decades. I just follow the on board notification if it has one. Not one issue so far. I don’t even need to add oil in between changes. They are usually around the low mark tho-
1 Like
Nissan 2.5L I used to have was rated for 7500 miles OCI, but by 5000 the oil looked like I better get it changed.
Toyota seem to easily get to the specified OCI and have oil of light color.
Probably “it depends” 
1 Like
Since engines only last 20 plus years he will be proud getting an additional 10 years out of that Scion.
I have a detailed spreadsheet from 150k to 494k for the lab analysis (cost per analysis £10).
How can I down load it?
BrianH
Nice! Only ~$13 For small aircraft engines? Would love to see it.
I can see a typical passenger car or SUV going 10K miles on oil under mild conditions.
Toyota and others after all say this is okay.
But some fancy oil claiming 20K miles to me is like wearing underwear for a year because they’re made of kevlar.
I think I just threw up in my mouth. 
2 Likes
Just gave me a new idea: Kevlar Depends for projectile d…
1 Like
But you’re using LPG instead of gasoline, right? So those results don’t apply to most cars.
3 Likes
