I’ve got a 2016 Crosstrek that has, as the title suggests, a hot problem and a cold problem.
The hot problem is that my AC compressor has completely seized. My local mechanic informed me that when a compressor fails and completely seizes, it often throws debris into the rest of the AC system and/or damages other components when it fails. They informed me that while they would simply replace the compressor, they would not warranty the repair unless I got a complete AC overhaul for the reasons listed previously. They suggested I take it to a dealer to get the repair done, as they could not find aftermarket parts. While I wait for what is sure to be a repair costing a couple grand, it leaves me with a serpentine belt that is just constantly rubbing against the compressor pulley. Does anybody have any suggestions for how to counter this constant rubbing? It can’t be good for the belt. Should I try to break the compressor in a way that makes the pulley freely spin? Should I keep a new belt in the trunk just in case?
The cold problem is that when my car has sat for a long period of time (over 6 hours) in colder weather, typically less than 50°, it will occasionally have a problem starting. I will turn and release the key to start it as usual, but the engine either will not start or will just begin to start and then die. Attempting to restart the engine requires holding the key in the start position for 2-3 seconds while the engine turns over. Sometimes I have to try 2 additional times to start the engine. It has not failed to start entirely YET. When it does eventually restart, it starts with very low RPMs (sub-1000) and then jumps up to the usual high idle. When cranking on both the first failed start attempt and through all restart attempts, the engine does not sound like it is turning over any slower than it usually does when cranking. Any suggestions? Do I need to get like an engine block heater for colder weather? I’m unsure if it is an issue with the starter or the battery, as the engine appears to spin at normal speed and none of the lights appear dim prior to attempting to start the vehicle.
I do not think that these are related, as the failure to start in cold weather has been going on for longer than the AC has been out, but I’m open to anything.
What this entails is, disassembling the A/C system, flushing the refrigerant lines and evaporator with a solvent, and reassembling the system using the components shown.
This is done so the new compressor isn’t damaged from the debris from the old compressor.
The starting problem might be caused from a faulty anti drain-back valve in the fuel pump.
But this can be verified by performing a fuel pump residual pressure test,
If you turn the AC off (push the AC button so the yellow light goes out) and are NOT in the defrost or defrost and heat mode on your HVAC control panel, then the pulley on the front of the compressor should turn freely.
In the mean time, yes, you pretty much need the whole system. That is assuming that the mechanic who diagnosed this did measure system pressure to insure that you do have enough freon in the system.
Edit: when cold, try turning the key to the run position and lets it stay there for 2-3 seconds before trying to start. If that makes a difference, then @Tester is right.
I e had several compressors fail, and there are a number if components that need to be replaced, plus the system needs to be cleaned with expensive chemicals. Nice when it work but expensive when it doesn’t.
Check fuel pressure on the cold start. Pump loosing its prime etc. diagnostics can check other sensor readings.
If the pulley seizes, the compressor would still turn so you would see the pulley turning. If the compressor seizes, the pulley would keep turning unless you have the AC on. There is a clutch between the pulley and the compressor. For the pulley to not turn at all means two things have seized, the compressor and the pulley clutch.
Low refrigerant would tell the computer to not engage the clutch so it would just spin freely
So (forgive me if I’m wrong here, I’m a biologist, not an engineer) the clutch has seized in the engaged setting and the compressor has seized simultaneously, meaning the belt is rubbing against a totally unmoving pulley. Do you (or anyone else, open to suggestions here) have an idea for how I could maybe disengage the clutch so the belt isn’t just rubbing against a stationary pulley? I don’t think my belt will last, depending on how expensive the repair will be and how long I need to save up. Do you all think a dealer mechanic might know?
Thanks again for the explanation and the suggestions
Is it possible to put a filter on the compressor intake to prevent damage from debris? Or on the output to prevent a failed compressor from trashing the rest of the system?
@hagenboggs_176715 You were given this vehicle for free . Unless you are one of 3 people in the world without a credit card just have this thing fixed .
I semi-disagree with you here. If it was only the clutch bearing that failed, the compressor should still turn so the belt would not be rubbing against the pulley. Everything else I agree with you.
@hagenboggs_176715, there is a wire that goes to the pulley clutch. It usually plugs in at the top just behind the pulley so it should not be difficult to find. Disconnect this wire or have your mechanic disconnect this wire, secure it so that it doesn’t get wound up in any of the rotating equipment surrounding it and then see if the belt still slips on the pulley.
If the clutch pulley bearing has seized, the belt will still slip and you have two issues, the clutch pulley and the compressor. They may not have happened at the same time. The clutch pulley could have seized a long time ago and you probably would not have noticed except that your AC would be running even with the switch off. Then the compressor failed.
On my old olds, the compressor seized up tight and just sealed the belt. I really don’t remember or know if it was as Nevada or tester. Described. It was near the end of life and had two belts so just took the one belt off and never fixed it. With one belt running the other components though I’d get a squeal in the morning for a block or two so everyone knew when I left for work. So I guess have it looked at for a few dollars to see how bad it is.
If the compressor still rotates freely (meaning not locked up) then the bearing is just there for support of the pully, the clutch can be seized to the pulley and it will be always engaged and the compressor will not cycle/turn off (which has it’s own negative effects), now if the compressor is locked up but the bearing and clutch are ok then just don’t turn on the AC (or unplug like suggested)… If the compressor is locked up and the bearing and or clutch is seized/bad/engaged then you will smoke the belt…
If the compressor comes apart then you need to flush everything not being replaced, even the suction/manifold hose due to sometimes an engine and or compressor can rotate backwards when turned off and dump trash back into the suction hose (yes it can happen)…
If the seized shaft is a free turning compressor then it will rotate with the compressor as Keith stated…
A good way to check is to (engine OFF) grab the clutch, not pulley, and spin it, if the compressor is locked up (and the clutch is not seized) you will not be able to rotate the clutch by hand…
I’ll run the AC through the tests y’all have described and see what happens. In the meantime, last night after work (in cold weather) I tried leaving the key in “Run” for a few seconds like suggested, but didn’t hear the fuel pump hum and had a hard time starting. This morning (after sitting in the sun for a few hours) I did the same and heard the fuel pump hum, started fine. Would you all say that sounds more like a fuel pump issue or a fuel pump relay issue?
