Honda Odyssey 105,000K maintenance

My Maintenance Required light came on recently, so I took my 2002 Odyssey to the dealer to have them check it out. They just called me with quote for the following (from most important to least):



1) Front and Right engine mount replacement.

$850



2) Timing Belt Package (includes belts / water pump / t/b tensioner / engine seals)

$1500



3) Spark Plugs (platinum plugs)

$255



4) Both front lower control arm bushings need replacement.

$450



5) Power steering fluid flush.

$180



6) Honda 105k scheduled maintenance.

$425



Ouch! $3700 out of the blue…



So I’m wondering two things, (1) do those prices make sense? I live in the metro DC area… (2) and does that order make sense? 'cause I can’t afford all that at once.

Timing belt you do need to have done. But that price is OUTRAGEOUS.

The Power steering fluid flush is a rip off.

Engine mounts…possible…but I’d ask them to show you.

What’s included with the $425 scheduled maintenance???

$225 for new plugs is also very very high.

Find another mechanic. I really don’t trust these guys. Go to a good independent mechanic. Even if you do need SOME of what’s listed…it shouldn’t cost anywhere near $3700.

Mike’s right - find an independent mechanic, uses Cartalk’s Mechanix files, has worked well for me. Just for fun, have them quote you the page in the owner’s manual that lists the steering fluid flush…didn’t think so!

You need the timing belt package, but it should only be about $900 - 1k. And you’ll need an oil change. The rest is bogus. The plugs will be due at 120k miles. The price seems high, but I assume you have the v6 and sometimes the labor for the rear plugs can be very high.

Price this around at a reputable independent import shop and you should be able to save some money.

  1. On the mounts one would assume if you have 2 mounts bad there is some engine vibration and/or thunking going on.
  2. Timing belt is a must, but the price is a bit high in relation. The high price may not mean you’re being ripped; only that they’re using factory OEM parts which are higher and odds are labor rates in DC are pretty high anyway.
  3. The spark plugs should have been done already IMHO. I flat do not believe that plugs should be allowed to remain in an engine for 100k miles +/- anything. When left in for long periods it’s possible they can seize in the threads and this means plug replacement can get very pricy when one has to start repairing spark plug holes.
  4. The price could be about right IF the bushings are legitimately bad and IF the lower control arm assemblies are replaced.
  5. Won’t hurt, but could probably be done cheaper elsewhere.
  6. About right.

One thing that is often overlooked, and this is due to the manufacturer’s recommendation as idiotic as it may be, is the valve adjustment. This should be inspected and adjusted as needed about every 30k miles. The factory recommends a 100k miles plus and this is utter stupidity. This is done for the sole purpose of making their cars appear to be more “maintenance free”. The majority of cars will not suffer a problem but for the few that do it can be expensive.
Even the recommended method of “audibly” checking the adjustment for noisy lifters is beyond any logic. The quiet ones are the ones you really have to worry about. Here’s a bit more reading info on this:

http://www.artsautomotive.com/HondaV6ValveAdjustment.htm

The prices are WAY out of line. Here is what I think:

  1. Get a second opinion on the motor mount. You might not need it.

  2. When was the last time you had the timing belt changed? If you are driving around with the original, get it replaced at a more reasonable-priced garage. $1,500 is WAY too much to pay. I got a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and a new cam shaft seal for less than $600.

  3. $255 is WAY too much to pay for a set of six spark plugs.

  4. Get a second opinion on the bushings. Based on what I have seen so far, if you need them, you are better off getting them done where it won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

  5. Check your owner’s manual. I don’t think Honda has an interval for replacing the power steering fluid. However, you can do this at home with a $3 siphon pump. First you drain the fluid with the siphon pump. Then you replace the fluid. Look for fluid that says “Honda Power Steering Fluid” on the bottle. It doesn’t have to be made by Honda and you can get it at the corner auto parts store. If you want, you can pay a little more and buy it at a dealership. Then after a few days, drain and refill again. You will have saved about $170.

  6. If the 105k service requires a new timing belt and spark plugs, why are these items not included in this price? $425 should include new spark plugs, making the total for everything except the bushings and power steering fluid (unless the power steering fluid is mentioned in your owner’s manual) less than $1,200.

Read the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual. Make sure you don’t pay for anything that isn’t on that list. Show that list to other dealerships, independent mechanics, and service centers to get comparative quotes to make sure they are all quoting the same work.

If the timing belt job is done properly, the valves will be checked for proper adjustment for no additional cost.

If you live near Springfield, VA, check out some of the shops in the Newington area. I think a couple of them are listed in mechanics files on the Cartalk home page. Let them re-inspect the motor mounts and go from there.

The spark plugs price may not be too out of line, since I have to pay $80 extra on my Mazda MPV, due to parts they have to remove to get to the rear plugs, etc. My last plug replacement was three years ago and in the $220 range here in Kansas City area.

Agree with Jeremy; these costs are outrageous, and many of them not necessary. Timing belt and spark plugs are normal at this mileage. If the car has antilock brakes, I would also drain and refill the brake fluid. I’ve never changed power steering fluid on any car, except when the power unit failed on my Ford Granada.’

Just do what the owners manual tells you, and go to a less greedy shop.

  The items listed all sound reasonable for that mileage.  Don't delay the timing belt replacement. 

  Dealers are no better (or worse) than independent mechanics for almost anything you might need done on your car.  They will almost always charge more per hour and often more for parts and supplies.  They also tend to look at repairs a little different than the independent. 

A dealer may well recommend work that strictly may not be needed, but could be connected to the problem or maybe replace a part when a little repair would fix it ALMOST as good a new.  

There is no need to bring your car to the dealer for any service other than service that is going to be paid for by a recall or original warrantee.  During the warranty period be sure to have all required (as listed in the owner's manual) maintenance done and to document all maintenance work.

I suggest that most people would be better off finding a good independent (Not working for a chain) mechanic. 

Note: Never ever use a quick oil change place. They are fast cheap and very very bad.

I am not a mechanic. But I have had good experience at two metro DC shops. Firestone, on Georgia Avenue in Wheaton, and Butler Automotive, in Rockville.

Last November I had the following done on my 2000 Honda (at 105k) by an independent mechanic, all for about 750$. He told me the dealer would have been a few hundred more. (I’m in Tennessee).
Timing belt replaced
new water pump
two drive belts replaced
radiator flushed
six spark plugs replaced
all fluids topped off
oil/filter changed
air filters changed
tire pressure adjusted

Not related to a 105,000-maintenance, but dealer wanted $269.95 for changing front breaks. I took my 2001 Odyssey - 60,592 miles- to pepboys they quoted me for $150, I changed them myself for $40.
I’m looking into the power steering fluid flush for $119, and front engine mount for $435.13 - both from dealer.
After reading these notes, and the miles on the Odyssey, I will be looking for a good independent mechanic now.

Just wanted to bump this thread and say thanks. Good info.