High voltage

I have a 2001 Honda CR-V. I have replaced the battery, alternator, and the electronic load device. I’m still getting such high voltage, that i’m having to charge the battery, to get it started. I don’t know what would be causing all my problems. I came home from work Thurs. night and the car was fine. I got in it Friday morning and the speedometer quit working, the tranny was skipping first gear, and the check engine light was on. I drove it where I needed to go that day, and I lost all power to my radio, heater & A/C, and my RPM meter dropped, and then it died. I had to have someone jump the battery for me to make it home. It barely made it home. A friend hooked up his diagnostic tool for my engine and it pulled the following codes: P1298 - high voltage, P0505 Idol control (only thing we haven’t worked on yet), P1768 - solenoid valve B clutch, and P0141 & P0135 O2 sensors. We have spent over $500 on repairs, and it’s no better. I can’t afford to keep dumping money in this car. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

This is just a guess from afar, but–given the percentage of poor-quality rebuilt and aftermarket alternators–I think that you probably need to install a genuine OEM Honda alternator.

Get the battery checked, funny things can happen with a dying battery.

Sounds Like You’re Using DTCs To Indicate Which Parts Need To Be Replaced, Rather Than Diagnosing The Problem(s). You’re Getting The Results Of That Type Of Diagnosis.

From what it sounds like to me, the charging system is possibly putting out, but the battery is not charging or holding the charge and the car is going into Limp Mode (Trans not shifting). Have you checked for good grounds (All ground wires/straps)?

Time for a good automotive electric system mechanic or an Auto Electrics Shop to pinpoint the culprit. The problem could be elementary for somebody who knows what’s what.


What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running? Where are you getting your parts from?

“I’m still getting such high voltage, that i’m having to charge the battery, to get it started.”

That sentence doesn’t make any sense. Can you clarify it?

Have You Checked All Fuses, Carefully? I See You Replaced The ELD Which Is A Common Cause Of Your Type Of Symptoms. I’m Surprised That Didn’t Fix It.

The ELD sends a signal to the engine control module and it adjusts the alternator output.

What’s confusing people is “P1298 - high voltage” is not really high charging system output, but rather that the ELD input circuit signal (from the ECM) is high voltage.


All of these symptoms point to a poor connection at the battery or the distribution panel under the hood. Corroded terminals and grounds should be searched out and fixed.

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a intermittent connection situation.
Even if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!


Thanks yosemite and common sense answer. I have checked and cleaned the cables around the battery. I will have to check the other end of the cables and the ground wire. We have checked all the fuses and they’re good. Thanks for the great advice, keep it coming. We’re also thinking there could be a loose wire causing all of this. Any thoughts on that?