Car Won't Start, Battery, Alternator, and Starter Test Good

I have a 2007 Honda Accord LX. After running several errands with 5 to 10 minutes of city driving between each stop, it wouldn’t start after the final stop (20 minutes in the grocery store). The lights were not left on, and no accessories were left on. The outdoor temperature was about 50 degrees F. It would turn over a couple of times before finally dying. I got a jump from a stranger, and it fired right up. I drove the couple of miles home, turned it off, and tried restarting, but it behaved the same as it had at the grocery store. I put the battery charger on it (set to the 10amp setting) and after several hours of charging it started (I tried after 10 minutes, but it again behaved like it had at the grocery store). Once the battery was charged and the car started I took it to two different auto parts stores. They both tested the battery, alternator, and starter and reported all was well. This is the second time this has happened in the past month. After the first time, I was advised to replace the battery, which I did.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/blog/power/short-drives

Tester

Check for corrosion close to the positive battery terminal, pull back the red cover on the terminal, I have seen corrosion build up back a little bit from the battery terminal on the cable…

@Tester Thanks! Short drives could be part of the problem, but the car has been driven in this manner for years, and this problem has only manifested itself in the last month. Nevertheless, I think I will get a battery maintainer to extend the battery’s life.

Aren’t there some relays in Hondas that can cause problems? Fuel pump relay?

Just captain obvious but the battery is not being charged. The question is why. I think an evaluation by a real mechanic is in order not a parts store clerk. So is it short trips that didn’t cause a problem before, corroded cables, an alternator not putting out, etc? Using a $20 plug in volt meter will tell you if the alternator is putting out 13 plus volts while driving as a clue.

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@texases Thanks! How might one diagnose such a problem (given that the relay hasn’t failed completely)?

Yes, I think it is becoming discharged somehow. However, it is getting charged at least a little, as I don’t think the car could run just off of the battery for two weeks of daily driving with multiple starts per day. I wonder if there is a dead spot in the alternator or starter so that they test good most of the time, but if they stop in a specific position they drain the battery?

The cables around the battery look good, but I haven’t crawled under the car to look at the connection to the starter.

At least at idle the alternator is putting out 14.2v, presumably higher (or at least not lower) at higher RPMs, but I can have someone rev the engine while I watch the volt meter and see what happens.

That indicates the battery wasn’t fully charged.

Tester

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If this was an “older” Honda, that would be a possible problem, but those problematic relays were in cars that they manufactured in the '90s. It’s not impossible for this to be the problem in a 2007 Honda, but I think Tester’s observation is right on target:

+1

Time for an alternator test by an actual mechanic (not a guy from the parts store), and if the alternator tests out okay, then it’s time for a new battery.

I’m just a pin-head diyer, complete knucklehead. But I own an older Corolla, which has no dashboard warning lights & cranks & starts as well as it did when new. However I have had no- or slow-crank problems over the years and repaired them myself. If I had that problem here’s what I’d do (Fair warning, a few of the folks posting here probably think you should just ignore me ) Presuming you have a conventional gasoline engine configuration, not hybrid or EV. )

  • Verify the battery measures appx 12.6 volt before the first start of the day, then 13.5 -15.5 volts after starting the engine.
  • Verify both starter motor terminals measure at least 10.5 volts with the key in “start”. Probe terminal to starter case.

If both tests pass, my guess is your starter motor is the problem.

12.7v

14.2v

That looks good. If consistent day to day, unlikely to be the battery or alternator.