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CAR RUNS FOR 3-5 MINUTES AND SHUTS OFF --NEW FUEL PUMP, FILTER-NEW DISTRIBUTER,CAP AND ROTOR–REBUILT THE CARB-NEW PLUGS,COILS CHECK OUT OK 85 MAZDA RX7 ROTARY 5-SPEED MANUEL

Does the car have a security system?

CHECK THE CHOKE? IS THE CHOKE OPENING FULLY? DO YOU HAVE YOU CAPS LOCK KEY STUCK OR JUST PREFER ALL CAPS?

On an 85 vehicle, where the engine just shuts off, there’s not much that can cause that.

Except for maybe a faulty ignition control module?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=49930&cc=1192306&jnid=402&jpid=0

Tester

Does this failure occur only at idle or while driving too? Like Tester said, the ignition module is highly suspect…I owned an RX-7 once…Those things had FUNKY ignition systems…But they are a blast to drive!

I replaced whole distributer and both ignition modules, spark plug wires check out ok, new plugs, rebuilt the carb, new cap and rotor, – still hard to start - still cuts off after few minutes

sorry about caps, using someone elses laptop computer

Sometimes…you just start typing.
In my daily business I MUST use caps lock . The Ford part number system does not know lower case hence the Reynolds and Reynolds o.s. software is written that way too.
SO…
When I toggle over to emails and chat rooms ?..I get stung that way too…doesn’t bother me a bit.

UPPER CASE ?
lower case ?
anyone remember why they’re called that ? My kids sure don’t.
But when I was a kid I’d go to my dad’s newspaper job and we’d walk around the printing press room and play with the lead type letter blocks that were stored in…CASES. The capital letters were on the top of the line-o-type machine and the small letters were below that…hence upper and lower case.
This line-o-type machine allowed the operator to type on a keyboard at about normal pace and the lead blocks would drop into place in order as they typed. That line , or whole paragraph would be on a tray that could go directly to the printing press.
YES …LEAD type. We’d even play with the casting mold furnace and the recycle pile of lead stock.

Will the engine continue to run if you hold the pedal to the floor?
How correctly was the carburetor overhauled? Proper means complete disassembly, soaking in solvent for several hours, washing it out, and thoroughly blowing out every single opening and pore on it. Anything less can leave a problem behind.

I worked for a multi-line dealer that carried the Mazda line of cars although I was seldom involved in the repairs on them. A co-worker beside me used to see a lot of these carbed rotaries and he would have to wrestle them tooth and nail all the time. The carbs are pretty complex; much like the old Honda units.
I seem to remember the carbs relying on a number of electrical inputs so check all fuses and power as applicable.

Another possibility, depending, is a large vacuum leak somewhere.

Just a guess, but this sounds like an ignition problem to me. If it sports an ignition coil, that’d be my first suspect. A crack can develop, and as it heats up the crack will widen and cause an open at some spot in the tiny-gauge high tension winding. If the ignition module also contains the coil, well, since you’ve already replaced it, my guess is no good.

Reynolds & Reynolds . . .

that brings back “pleasant” memories of being financially abused at the dealership

:fearful:

I remember watching the ole linotype machine in operation. Can’t exactly recall where but it was interesting. Used to play with lead soldiers all the time too so maybe that’s what’s wrong with me.

Does this rotary use a conventional carb? I suspect a problem with the rebuilt carb. Stock float for instance. When it stops it there evidence of either a too rich or too lean mixture? Black smoke perhaps?