Help with Passing Emissions Portion of Texas State Inspection

I have a 94 Honda Accord with 300K miles and it will not pass the emissions portion of Texas State Inspection test.



I tried using Lucas and driving the car prior to having the test conducted but my car still failed the emissions portion.



The dealership told me I need to have something completed with a O-ring? Do you think this sounds like a good solution? I don’t want to waste time and money with unnecessary repairs.

When did you last replace the air filter? Oil change? Plugs? Could you give us more info on the ‘o-ring’?

Why are you using the elevated labor cost of the dealer? An independent mechanic may be able to find the problem less expensively that the dealer. And a 16 year old car can get expensive quickly.

What are the results of the emissions test? The typical report will include the allowable RPMS vs the actual, the allowable HCs in ppm vs tested results, the allowable CO limits and the tested, the allowable NOx’s in ppm vs tested, and the CO+CO2 mix percentage allowable vs tested. This is typically for a road test conditions for 25 mph for 25 seconds and 15 mph for 50 seconds.

The reason for the failure is important to finding and fixing the problem. Post the emissions results for a much better answer.

Please tell us EXACTLY why your car failed. There are many different ways to fail an emissions test.

Sandra (?) Read the work order from the dealer. I’m sure that they didn’t diagnose the failure free.

I think you meant “PPM” not “RPM”?

You really need to provide some info about exactly what failed and what this mysterious O-ring is.

Based on trying an additive like Lucas my assumption is that your car is failing for hydrocarbons being too high, which in turn will affect the CO and NOX.
At 300k miles it’s likely burning some oil (hydrocarbons) and if this is the case then your car is toast as far as meeting the emissions standards.

As to the O-ring, the only thing I can surmise there is possibly valve seals and that would be a real iffy repair at 300k miles.

In my state, the engine RPMs are to be in a certain range during the 25/25 and 50/15 tests. The car can fail if the RPMs are too low or too high.

I have a hunch the shop said 'ring job" and the owner heard “O-ring”.

And I suspect your hunch about the engine’s internal condition is correct.

If visible smoke was detected in the exhaust, (common with high-mileage Honda’s) then it’s time for a new car…

Okay here is the information you requested
Oil Change 07/24/10
Plugs ???
Air Filter ??? (I usually change it when suggested by the mechanic)
O-ring - The mechanic wrote on the paperwork Roches Assembly (oil is in spark plug hole) & A11-4 Injectors, Q113 O-Ring
O-ring Parts Listed on Paperwork - O-Ring, Seal Ring - Injec, Cushion Ring

Also, there is something about “EGR Ports clogged up” on the paperwork

If you know a good mechanic in Houston, TX I am all ears…trust me. I have not had any luck. Houston is a huge city so I know they are out there, I just haven’t found one yet.

Below are the emissions reading:

1st Test (High Speed 25mph)
HC(PPM) Standard 127 Reading 6
CO(%) Standard 0.71 Reading 0.11
CO2(%) Standard None Reading 15.5
O2(%) Standard None Reading 0.2
NOx(ppm) Standard 910 Reading 976
Dilution(%) Standard >6 Reading 15.6

1st Test (Low Speed 15mph)
HC(PPM) Standard 132 Reading 28
CO(%) Standard 0.73 Reading 0.11
CO2(%) Standard None Reading 15.5
O2(%) Standard None Reading 0.3
NOx(ppm) Standard 910 Reading 1002
Dilution(%) Standard >6 Reading 15.6

The first test I failed the high speed NOx reading and passed the low speed.

The 2nd test had almost literally the same readings except I failed the NOx reading for both the high and low speed, readings below:

High Speed
NOx Standard 910 Reading 1474

Low Speed
NOx Standard 1006 Reading 1619

The first test I failed the high speed NOx reading and passed the low speed, readings below:

1st Test High Speed
Standard 910 Reading 976

1st Test Low Speed
Standard 1006 Reading 1002

The 2nd test had almost literally the same readings except I failed the NOx reading for both the high and low speed, readings below:

2nd Test High Speed
NOx Standard 910 Reading 1474

2nd Test Low Speed
NOx Standard 1006 Reading 1619

Responded to BustedKnuckles post with entire Emissions Test Results

I’m in agreement with mountainbike and Caddyman. It may be time to move on since the state wants to null and void the car due to emissions.

O-Ring - Additional Information (Everything below is from the mechanic’s paperwork)

O-ring - The mechanic wrote on the paperwork Roches Assembly (oil is in spark plug hole) & A11-4 Injectors, Q113 O-Ring
O-ring Parts Listed on Paperwork - O-Ring, Seal Ring - Injec, Cushion Ring

Also, there is something about “EGR Ports clogged up” on the paperwork

Emissions Results

The first test I failed the high speed NOx reading and passed the low speed, readings below:

1st Test High Speed
Standard 910 Reading 976

1st Test Low Speed
Standard 1006 Reading 1002

The 2nd test had almost literally the same readings except I failed the NOx reading for both the high and low speed, readings below:

2nd Test High Speed
NOx Standard 910 Reading 1474

2nd Test Low Speed
NOx Standard 1006 Reading 1619

Responded to BustedKnuckles post with entire Emissions Test Results

Fix the clogged EGR ports and the NOx numbers will go down.
The bad O-rings are in the valve cover and are letting oil get on the outer parts of the spark plugs.
Oil on the plugs is probably not a part of your current problem, but that needs fixing.
Get the valves adjusted while they have the cover off.

Thanks circuitsmith, I will do as you suggested. For all the repairs, do you know what is a fair cost (estimate of course).