It would be more helpful if you posted the measured value for each type, compared to the maximum allowed.
Is it failing on the HC, the CO, or the NO component? It appears from what I see the NO is your only emissions problem. The HC’s look good, and the CO appears to be maybe a little on the high side, but still probably within the limit. Am I interpreting your numbers correctly?
If the problem is the NO … The EGR is what primarily controls the NO emissions. NO’s are caused by high combustion temps. Which occur on heavy acceleration. The EGR cools the compustion chamber by routing exhaust gas back into the intake manifold. If it did this all the time the car would run poorly. So it only engages fully during heavy acceleration. It is usually controlled by a vacuum signal originating in the throttle plate area. And there is usually an associated device which prevent the EGR from operating until the engine coolant is at normal operating temperature.
The thing I do to test that the EGR on my early 90’s Corolla , I hook up a vacuum pump to the EGR vacuum control, at idle, when a vacuum is applied, the engine should sputter and possibly stall. If it isn’t, then while your EGR device may be working, the EGR passages that the device connects to may be carbon clogged.
If the EGR works, then it is possible the gadget that only allows the EGR to operate when the coolant temp is high enough is failing. That device should pass the vacuum through when the coolant is at operating temp.
It’s always a good idea to bring all the routine engine maintenance suggested in the owners manual up to date before emissions testing. Especially the engine air filter. I usually put in new spark plugs and set the ignition timing to spec too. If you Google “How to pass an emissions test” there are a couple of good web sites that offer some tips to increase your chanced of passing. Best of luck.