ok so my passenger side headlight wont turn on installed new bulb still wont turn on. I pulled the wiring schematic and on the connector i have a h13 bulb with 3 pins for high and low beams.
i have voltage when the low beans are on one wire WHT/TAN 10.9 volts (car off) and WHT/GRY is 10.99 volts (car off) the center connector is the ground
when i check the other side that is full functioning i get WHT/DR BLU 11.8 volts and WHT/ LT GRN 11.0 volts
when i have the HIGH BEAMS ON THE RIGHT SIDE wires WHT/TAN IS 10.9 volts and wire WHT/GREY is 11.68 volts AND THE LIGHT IS WORKING
SO MY QUESTIONS ARE’
- should i have voltage on the connector of the high beam when the high beams are not on
*what would cause the wht/gry wire to be 10.99 volts when it should be 11.8 volts
- how should i fix this could i run a paralle circuit off of the wiring on the fully functioning driver side headlight
You post is a little unclear. Is the problem the lo beam on the passenger sides doesn’t work, but the hi beam does? And both low and high work on the driver’s side?
The voltages you report, did you measure those w/the bulb connected or disconnected?
The driver side lo and high beam work fine the passenger side lo beams DONT work hi beams do work and voltage is measured at connection where it plugs in to the bulb
I guess I’d try a known good bulb first. They bulb from the driver’s side is good, so remove it and put it in the passenger side socket and try it. You also might want to spray a little contact cleaner into the socket (power off!) before you even plug in that known good bulb. The fact that you have voltage but it’s a little low makes me think you have a dirty contact.
should i have voltage on the connector of the high beam when the high beams are not on
It looks like that is normal. Look at the schematic and imagine the feed for the lamp filament in question is “floating”. The voltage from the one side will also appear on the other since they are connected by the lamp filaments. In essence, you cannot debug this condition that way. If the control module isn’t driving the lamp wire, it will float up to the other filament voltage minus some wire losses…
If you swap lamps and the problem stays on one side, and you rule out a wiring fault (ohm it out from the lamp socket to the TIPM connector with the circuit de-energized), then the TIPM is most likely at fault.
It sounds like there’s a high resistance connection somewhere, possibly the electronics module, but not necessarily. OP needs to report the voltages again, but this time with the bulbs connected. May need to construct a special test probe to do that. That will confirm or disprove the high resistance connection theory.