I would just fix the worst leaks first, then think about the smaller leaks later. Your truck looks fairly clean underneath aside from the leaks. It’s worth putting some money into. Of course having to pay a mechanic might cost too much, I don’t know, but S-10s are not cheap if you go try to buy one in decent shape.
totally agree, I think the crank shaft was the one of the most important besides the trans pan leak.
im going to change all the seals little by little, lol im not a rich man
would you recommend this fix or just new cooler lines?
That is true, as far as private sales are concerned
it seems that some S-10s in good shape go for more than full-sized trucks of the same vintage
Same thing goes for Rangers, as well
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The fitting is different on my 4.3 (mine’s a 1995) it’s a one piece fitting for each set of lines that bolts onto the filter adapter, so this wouldn’t apply. It looks like a good idea if you had those plastic push fittings. I’ve used the aftermarket lines, sometimes they last 6 months, sometimes 5 years. You might be able to get GM lines off the internet for a good price, I don’t know though, I always get the aftermarket lines.
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Just bite the bullet and get the stock type engine oil cooler lines
They’ll last several years before causing trouble
I know this because we used to have tons of S-10s in our fleet, and I’ve replaced those lines
You’ll be good for a few years . . . maybe you won’t even have the truck next time they leak
as for the engine oil pan . . . don’t even touch it, unless you’re a glutton for punishment
the factory service manual says the first step is to remove the engine
I’ve seen guys replace the pan gasket without removing the engine, but it’s a HUGE job
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I cleaned the bottom of the engine with degreaser and i left it running for 10 minutes, turned it off and 4 hours latter, the only leak besides the oil lines itself. is the oil filter adapter housing gasket. My last question would be how to fix rough idle. Its not bad i just wanted to do more maintenance on it soon. Any suggestions?
not sure if its considered rough idle but it vibrates noticeably. lol i guess it might not be possible since its an old car but just curious
a few things to consider
ignition tune-up . . . plugs, wires, cap and rotor
idle air control valve
motor mounts . . . they go bad on ALL S-10s with the 4.3 liter V-6. And when you do replace them, they’ll last a few years before also crumbling
fuel system . . . are all of your poppet injectors functioning normally?
The oil filter adapter housing gasket is pretty straightforward to replace
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I’ll check injectors and get back to you.
Cant find any suggestions online about these codes.
The p1441 says it is detecting evap system flow when it shouldn’t. There should be evap flow only during purge-activations , but your car is purging when it shouldn’t be. Either that or a sensor is failing and it just thinks it is purging. Leaking evap purge valve is the most likely. If so canister may need to be replaced also, as a faulty canister can damage the purge valve. Fuel tank pressure sensor is another possibility. Tank vent valve is yet another. Precede all this with a general inspection of the evap system hoses and connectors.
p1870 says the transmission or torque converter clutch is slipping. Generally the first step for this is a routine transmission maintenance procedure.
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yeah i just changed the oil for the transmission and it started slipping. like i can feel it on 40 to 50 mph. someone recommended making the transmission oil thicker, but im not sure i believe that… thank you for your reply i really appreciate it.