Has anyone ever had issues with brake bleeding on an 03 mitsu outlander?
No but sometimes now it is better to have a pro use a pressure bleeder instead of doing it yourself. I don’t think I could get my wife to go through one more bleeding anyway. You know, push down, let up, push down, let up etc. Front right, left rear, and so on.
Not on a Mitsu but I’ve successfully bled cars and trucks. Even those that were “supposed” to have a scan tool to exercise ABS valves - which I don’t have.
If you replaced the master, it MUST be bench bled BEFORE install. Once it is installed, each outlet line needs to be cracked while someone pushes slowly on the brake pedal. Once you see fluid, tighten while the pedal is still being pushed.
The rest of the system is best pedal-pump bled, or pressure bled. Some folks have had good results with vacuum bleeders, I have not. ALL bleed screws on calipers or cylinders you replace MUST be mounted UP, higher than the incoming lines, or the air won’t leave.
How about you tell us WHY you’re asking this question?
You want to bleed the brakes as routine maintenance?
You have a spongy pedal when you’re stopped at a red light?
You’ve replaced some rusted out brake lines?
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I figured it i i believe. I had the right and left calipers reversed. It seems to be ok now. I asked the question because, apparently it matters. Rookie mistake i suppose.
Don’t feel too bad, it is a common mistake the first time someone replaces calipers.
I could not believe how easy it was to use a one man bleeder or how well they worked. It is just a tube the right size for the bleeder going up into a jar or bottle mounter higher than the caliper. Have enough brake fluid in the jar to cover the end of the hose.Fill the master cylinder, crack the bleeder. Go in the car and slowly put the brake pedal down and up twice. Close the bleeder and repeat the process for each line you want to bleed. Done.
Yes . . . it does matter
The brake bleeder needs to be on top
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Glad you got it solved straight-a-way with the good advice above. We gets posts here where diy’ers attempt to bleed their brakes a dozen times or more failing every time, only to discover later that the calipers have been reversed left/right. Good for you for figuring it out so quickly.
Thanks for gettin back to me so quickly and having topics available that helped me figure it out.
The brakes are still a bit squishy tho so im thinkin the master cylinder is starting to fail. Also it starts to idle a bit rough when the brakes are depressed repeatedly. Booster?
The idle could be a leaky booster or even a voltage drop if the battery cable terminals are a bit scaled over. Does the idle speed drop?
Don’t fret over a mistake or not knowing something .Every mechanic on the face of the Earth including me has made some mistakes. Those who say they haven’t are quite likely lying or their ego keeps their memories erased.
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Make sure the brake booster holds vacuum to 20 inches. This test is easily done using an inexpensive hand-held vacuum pump gadget.