Blown fuses/fusible links are a possibility but you have not reached that point of the diagnosis, first you must verify the battery state of charge.
Wouldn’t the battery be verified, if said brand new battery, started in my old protege a day ago?
And even if it didn’t hold a charge, the car should still start when being jumped ( as it did in the winter with a four year old battery )
To test the condition of the cables . . . as I said earlier
I don’t understand you . . .
You’re asking for help
Yet when it comes, you question it . . .
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For a fails-to-crank problem the most simple test that tests for voltage drop as well is to measure the voltage at the two terminals of the starter motor (one is the thick B+ wire, the other the thin S wire) during attempted cranking (key in “start”). Use a volt meter, one probe on the terminal, one on the starter motor case. If both measure 10.5 volts or above and the starter motor doesn’t crank the engine either you’ve got a defective starter motor (the most likely) or the engine is seized. If you hear a whirring noise when doing this but the engine doesn’t crank, that would be either a defective starter motor, the flywheel teeth are stripped, or the starter motor isn’t positioned correctly.
I will reiterate; I still think you’re overthinking this problem. The fact that the battery cable connections are tight means nothing if the inner surfaces of the ends are scaled over or there is a poor connection between the cable and cable end.
hence the voltage drop test . . .
No I am trying to understand the reasoning for VDT
Will it start if I remove the intake cover?
The starter motor is buried underneath the intake cover…
I think George is right…
To test the
- battery to clamp connection.
- to test the clamp to wire connection
- to test the wire
- to test the wire to the terminal on the other end of the wire connection
- to test the terminal to starter connection
If the voltage drop is within reason, you just passed all 5 tests with one simple test.
Any one of those 5 spots can get loose or corroded, and 3 of them you can’t see because of the wires insulation.
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Going from some of you statements about what happens when the ignition is ON or OFF it indicates there is a problem either with power supply wire between the battery and the panel under the hood or perhaps with the ground side of the power supply.
You stated that the horn doesn’t work when the ignition is ON but it does work with it OFF. You also stated earlier that lights flash and relays click when trying to start the engine. These are signs of a bad connection to power. Myself and others here have recommended inspecting and cleaning the battery connections. So if that hasn’t been done yet you should do it before doing anything further. Going from your own statements like “there is a short circuit” and checking fusible links, you don’t seem to understand how electricity works and the problem you seem to have can be kind of difficult for a novice to understand. I don’t say that to be unkind, but you need to trust the advice that we are telling you to do to help you solve the issue you are having.
Since the car doesn’t start in PARK, that problem can be with the safety switch, the anti-theft system, or both. By bypassing the suspected areas or checking the voltage after the switched output will show what is up.
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George and Nevada were right again , it was a weak battery…
Glad you got it solved there OP, and back to a reliably starting engine. Engines that don’t start each and every time reliably are really frustrating.
Everyone says this car is in immaculate condition, I want it to last forever…
Thanks and have a great day,
Ryan
I doubt if everyone has seen this 19 year old vehicle and forever is a really long time.
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don’t be such a buzzkill, Volvo. geeze
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Yeah Volvo, don’t even bother reply ING on my threads…
Thanks and have a great day,
Ryan