I had vibrations 6 years ago in 2000 Ford Focus wagon. Mechanic replaced one of the engine mounts, but it did nothing. Recently, I had all three motor mounts replaced at a different place and I still get heavy vibrations. What might be the problem. Latest mechanic had me put foot on brake and then shift out of gear trying to find the problem but could not see anything.
You’ve lived with this vibration for 6 years, had at least 2 mechanics work on the car, and now you are asking for a solution for this 18 year old car.
I’m not going very far out on a limb by saying; There is no solution, live with it.
You said heavy vibration. Does it only happen when you drive or also at idol? In this case it might be many items that could cause this. CV joints, could also be rims/ tires, bad control mix, you need to give more specifics,
If I start the car in park (foot off brake and gas pedal) about 10 seconds after starting the vibrations begin.
If I am driving and then slow down gradually, vibrations begin when I get down to about 5-10 mph.
After driving, if I idle in park, there will be vibrations. However, if I put the car in drive with foot on the brake, that normally stops the vibrations.
Did you use Ford Oem mounts?
Ok… that is much better. More info the better. Sounds like its a EGR or its some kind of smog item. Maybe pcv valve and hose that needs to be changed. It really sounds like you might have an air or vac leak. I bet when its cold it runs much better as it warms up it gets worst? How about when you turn on the air conditioning? what happens then?
Also please look at your receipt let us know what mounts were replaced exactly.
Found this someone said:
There was a 1 inch rubber hose, I believe from the exaust, that is visible just behind the engine, that had a small leak in it. It would caused the car to idle funny, the problem was only present when the engine was warm though. Look very close at the PCV hose entry point at the bottom of the intake, they often bubblegum up and suck a hole inside of hose that alternately leaks/no leak to make the erratic idle come and go. Often just as you say, runs good cold till motor warms then starts suddenly misfiring at idle. Especially if car seems to run fine at higher speeds and under load.
They were Protier sold on E-bay the last time. These are probably not OEM’s, but they definitely were the right ones. The first time, where the replacement did not work was from Brakes Plus and as far as I know, they only use OEM’s.
I don’t recall that the air conditioning affecting things one way or the other. The vibrations occur with it on and with it off. The parts were from Protier EM 2939, 2986, 3003. I have not noticed a big difference between cold and warmed up for the vibrations, but have not really focused on that.
So far those are the correct parts and usually take care of the shaking.
Could be bad idle air bypass valve, bad cold start valve or even bad fuel pressure regulator. Will engine stay running with light tap on gas? If yes, then idle air bypass valve is faulty, if no, rule out bad idle air bypass valve. Does the stall occur only when engine is cold? If yes, there’s a problem with the cold start valve. If no, rule out bad cold start valve and that leaves one possibility. Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
The engine always stays running–it never stalls.
ok so then I would start with PC valve look for cracked air hoses.
Great–thanks so much for your advice!