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Glue for plastic

Friend hit a deer with 1996 Jeep Cherokee. Entire headlight assembly broken out to include screw mounts- Everything made of plastic.

Is there any type glue/epoxy that would create a strong enough, durable bond to re-attach the plastic mounts?

Thank you.

“Plastic” covers so many different formulations and some can be a real bear to glue. I’ve had reasonable results with similar parts using JB Weld- a two part epoxy available anywhere epoxies/glues are sold.

Rough up the surfaces perpendicular to the break to give it some tooth for the epoxy to grip. Apply to the broken surfaces and then put them together. Now continue to apply liberally along the perpendicular surface to provide additional support. Hold together for at least 15 minutes and then let cure for 24 hours prior to applying any stress.

Thank you for the info-

If you’ve not done the JB weld yet, I reccomend Devcon Plastic Welder (DA290) It’s not cheap, but for most plastics the bond is stronger than the original material.

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyid=182

3M Weatherstrip adhesive (referred to by mechanics as “gorilla snot”) also works well, is cheap, and available everywhere; even Wal Mart.

It’s best if the area to be glued is scuffed up a bit with sandpaper first and wiped down lightly with carburetor cleaner. The carb cleaner has a tendency to make the plastic a bit tacky and this promotes better adhesion.
Takes a day to set up well though.

Now that looks like some decent adhesive! It appears to be available through distributors and I found a couple nearby using their search feature, is it also available through retailers? I don’t want a case, I just want to try a tube…

Only $12ish.

Why not just get a replacement headlight bezel from a local auto recycler instead of trying to piece together the broken one?

Tester

I used to work for a D.O.D. contractor. I can recommend a military grade epoxy that I used for repairing my plastic remote door opener. It’s Scotchweld 2216. I think it’s made by 3M. It’s a 2-part epoxy that requires a 24-hour cure at room temperature. However, it cures faster when heat is applied. I don’t know how much it costs, you’ll have to get that info on the internet.

I’m going to tag along on this thread. I snapped off a small piece of plastic trim that caught on the sponge as I was washing the car.

The bit of plastic “chrome” is part of the letter “T” so it is a thin straight piece of plastic about 1" long by 1/8" wide. The glue on the car body is black and seems to have a bit of “give” to it when I push a fingernail into it.

I’d like to fix it since driving a “lhunderbird” isn’t cool.

Hey Unc, Why not drive A Car Like Under-Dog Had? You Could Drive An “underbird”! That’d Be Cool!

CSA

Next time I wash it I’ll see if I can get brainless enough to rip off the rest of the “T” and the “h” too. Then “underbird” it will be.

You guys are making me thirsty. I could use a pint of Thunderbird right now.

I agree with Tester. If you try enough adhesives, you’ll probably find one that works on whatever plastic was used for the parts. If you are good with a welding torch, you might even be able to weld the pieces together … or maybe burn them up which will also solve the problem. The fastest and very likely cheapest solution would be a used part. If the first recycler you try blows you off try a couple of others before you give up.

I would love to watch someone walk into WalMart and ask the greater at the door where they could find "gorilla snot."

" go see the big guy at the parts counter".

Thanks to everyone for the information on the different glues- It will all come handy at some time- I ended up getting an aftermarket header panel. There was a lot more damage than I first thought and the header panel was cheap.

Gotta put in a vote for shoe goo, available at wally world and other places, stabalize it and give it 2 to three days to cure and you have got the best stuff in the world!