I just installed a trailer connector in my fathers car. The connector is working fine, but it seems like the job has left the gearshift stuck in park. I really don’t get how this could happen doing such an easy task. I hard-wired the connector to the car, because my father bought a trailer connector with wrong plugs.
I have checked the brakelights, they are fine. I have also checked for blown fuses on the driver´s side, and under the hood.
Any ideas about how I can fix the problem?
There’s probably a problem with the safety feature where you have to step on the brake pedal to move the lever out of Park. Were you working in the area of the brake pedal? Perhaps you accidentally disconnected something. Take another look in the brake pedal area is probably the first step. If that doesn’t work, remove everything you did temporarily and see if that returns your Qashqai to normal operation.
Have no idea what this vehicle is or where you are. But my dumb thought is does the brake pedal need to be pressed for this thing to start and be placed in drive. I know that sounds simple.
Related to the Nissan Rogue sold in US market.
I have checked that the switch for the safety feature is pushed when I press the pedal. I was working in the trunk of the car, so probably not. May have to remove the wires I did… Really wanted to avoid that as I used lugs with heat shrink.
Norway 
Yes, it has to be pressed. But still won’t move…
Might be a fuse problem then. Do you concur it is similar to the USA Rogue? Model year ?
Just looked it up, it’s called Rogue Sport in the US. I think it is a 2008. Checked the two fuseboxes I could find, the fuses where good.
According to the 2008 Rogue info I can find, the shift lever cannot be shifted from the P position unless the brake pedal is depressed while the ignition switch is ON. so make sure that’s being done. Make sure the brake lights are coming on when you do this, get an assistant to look. From what I can see there’s a sort of rod or lever in the brake pedal area, that goes into a slot. That lever is in the up position unless the ignition is ON and the brake pedal is pressed, at which point a electrical solenoid just under that rod should click and allow that rod to fall down a little. Take a look in that area, see if you can find what I just described.
There’s a bypass system for all this, in event you are stuck and need to shift out of Prak. are you aware of how that works? If not, look in the owners manual. while there see if you can find a fuse named “shift interlock”, something like that. If so, check to see if it is ok.
Edit: Found another drawing, that rod/lever ass’y mentioned above may not be exactly in the brake pedal area. If you can’t find it, from what I see. There’s a cable (key lock interlock cable, not a wire, more like a bicycle brake cable) that goes from the steering column area to that area where the solenoid mentioned above is located.
Thanks for taking the time to check things out! I really appreciate it. I do have the ignition switch on, and brake pedal depressed. I have located a switch that is pushed in when the brake pedal is not depressed, and released when it is depressed. I have not checked further into the solenoid. I will definately do that.
I have tried the bypass system, the gearshift moves out of park. But when I tried driving it, it seemed like the car was stuck in first gear. The rpm just kept going up. There is really some shady buisness going on here. So frustrating.
hmmm … looks like you may have accidentally done something you didn’t intend to do with the trailer install. Probably best to step back to square one, remove or at least disconnect everything you did. Won’t take that much time to re-lug and re-heat shrink it. Don’t spend a dollar to avoid a dime’s worth of work.
Good to hear we have a Norway poster btw. I spent a little time in the seaside town of Horten just south of Oslo a while back. I’m currently reading a book titled Sea Wolves about the medieval Vikings. If you see someone with a sword, your shift out of P problem is the least of your worries, see a Viking carrying a big sword, run!!! … lol …
Does the wiring harness you installed have a converter? One is required to use a four conductor trailer harness.
The wiring may have caused a voltage line drop, so the solenoid doesn’t get the right voltage to activate. Yes, I think I have to remove the work…
Hahah, this is my first time in here. Desperately looking for answers online and stumbled over it. Will definitley continue to use it! Do you work in oil? Horten is a typical destination for oil-buisness. Not many swords around here though! But I’ll make sure to run if I see one
What kind of converter are you refering to? I am using a 7-pin connector
A standard 7-pin connector in the US uses common turn signal and brake lights. I believe your Rogue has separate turn signal and brake lights. If you have to connect the turn signal and brake light wires to make the connection, that might be what the problem is. A converter is needed. The one below has a 4-pin flat connector, but the concept is the same.
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48895.html?feed=npn&gclid=CJKPzeHek9MCFdmCswodcu0IuA
Thanks! You just saved me a lot of headaches! Now I just need to figure out what to do with the missing plugs… Need to do better research next time
I happened to watch a couple of science programs on tv, one about how to make a Japanese sword, and the other how to make a Viking sword. Pretty interesting. The technique used between the two sword types is quite different in order to achieve the best compromise between flexibility and sharp edge holding ability. The Japanese used a sort of hybrid method where they wrapped a low carbon steel center with high carbon steel at the end of the process, while the Vikings use a single casting crucible steel method. Re Horten & the oil business, I wasn’t in the oil business myself but the project I was working on was related to that industry. I still have a “NETROH BICYLE SHOP” T-shirt I got from that trip. Hopefully you’ve got your Nissan working again. Best of luck.