Mazda Tribute 2003. Usually, I fill the tank, and the gas gauge goes right up to the top. Today, I filled it (yes, I put 14 gallons in it, when almost empty), and the gauge stayed low. Very slowly increased to 1/4 full after an hour or two. I presume the sensor is dead. How big a deal repair? Is this something that can be done relatively quickly? We have only one car.
Before replacing the sensor, presuming the sending unit uses the typical float arm w/variable resistor, ask your shop to measure the resistance. This might be a gauge-display or wiring harness problem and it would be a shame to replace the fuel-tank sender unit only to find that doesn’t solve the display problem.
Don’t ask a shop to check certain things. Just tell them what is wrong, it is their job to find the problem and fix it. Of course there will be a charge to find the problem so ask for a repair price so you can decide if you want to spend that amount.
The other way is to just fill up after you have driven enough miles that you will be at 1/4 to 1/2 tank . Don’t trust the low fuel light as it might be wrong.
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If the problem is the sender unit, I’d guess around $150 parts cost & an hour labor. Expect add’l labor if the tank is full.
On a 20 year old car forget it. Not worth pulling the tank to replace the sender when at some point you’ll need a pump or new tank anyway. But if this is your only car, I would suggest adding to the fleet or upgrading while you can.
Speaking from experience. I went years with a faulty sender and never ran out of gas.
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It only pays 0.7 hours for the fuel pump assembly, which includes the pump and sending unit… If that is what it is, could also be the gauge or something else…
Do you get a lot of bullet holes in your gas tank? Many vehicles have plastic fuel tanks, these last the life of the vehicle.
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Funny man. So you advise pulling the tank for a new sensor on a 20 year old car? We do get rust here but not a lot of bullet holes shooting at ducks.
Bullet holes from those Pretty Boy Floyd peaceful riots.
The Tribute/Escape has a fuel pump access panel under the back seat.
This vehicle is about as easy as it gets for replacing the pump/sender assembly. This is a good DIY job if you’re up for it. You may need a tool to remove the retainer ring on the module assembly. If you can’t borrow one from a local parts store, you can use a hammer and block of wood to loosen it. It’s a plastic ring so go easy on it if you don’t use the tool.
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Every time I’ve had a vehicle’s gas gauge go wonky, I’ve just used the trip odometer to know when to fill up.
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I had already posted it only pays 0.7 hours, that should have been a hint you do not have to R&R the gas tank… 
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The access panel information is highly valuable. Drive enough to mostly empty the tank, then pull the pump and see if the float is stuck. Have a new pump and see if the ohms match.
My question to everybody: since you are working around gas (vapor and liquid), what special precautions are needed?
Don’t smoke while doing it… 
Probably best for a DIYer to do it outside in fresh air, preferably with a nice breeze blowing and DO NOT use incandescent lighting (drop light etc) to see with…
No sparts, or grilling out while doing this either… lol
Also, wear natural fiber clothes. Synthetic fibers like polyester melt while they burn and the results are much worse that skin burns from burning cotton.
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Well, the gauge has decided to behave itself, and is now near full. Will see if it decreases responsibly as the gas is used up. What could make it respond so very slowly?
So where do I find information on exactly where the float is located? It’s only easy to do if you have a clue where it is.
Quien sabe?
I recall with my brother’s '64 VW Bug that the gas gauge would never move after filling-up… until you hit a big bump in the road. Of course, that was a different type of mechanism, but…
Requires access to your car’s repair procedures. The most accurate version will be in the factory service manual that you obtain from the dealer or manufacturer. Bring your wallet, often fairly expensive. A less expensive version might be available from Haynes or Chiltons. You get what you pay for however. In any event it is a fools errand to even attempt to repair your own car without this information. My opinion.
It is possible that you let the fuel level get low enough for the float to stick. Try to fill up at the 1/4 mark and see if that solves the problem.
I refuel at the 1/2 mark because with natural disasters it might be difficult to get fuel when you need it most.
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