Okay, I drive an 05 Chev Aveo LS (manual) and so my dash lights and park lights (on the right side) stopped working or rather kept flickering once in awhile then stopped working. So I got my mechanic to look at it and he found the problem to be this fuse (I shall call it a fuse as I’m not sure exactly what it is) and so he saw it was kinda burnt and so he took it out and cleaned it and it worked for a bit then stopped again. So I take it to the Chev dealer and guess what… they don’t know what it is because their computer didn’t tell them what it was… DUH! So I cannot find someone who knows and I was wondering if I will have to buy a second-hand fusebox or not. The fuse in question is at the end of the fusebox under the hood and is white and about 2" long (wide). If necessary, I could take a picture of it.
There’s a fuse diagram. I don’t know what end you’re talking about, but I bet it’s the splicer, right? That’s known for overheating and burning wires under the hood. There’s a repair that works, but would probably not be recommended for the novice. It involves removing the splicer and soldering the wires together.
Ya you’re right it is the splicer. I did some searching and it sounds like some other people had to do the same thing. I don’t do a lot of stuff like that so I will try to find someone who can.
Thanks for the input.
Drew
no problem. good luck. From what I’ve seen, the job is kind of a pain because there isn’t a whole lot of wire to work with under there.
Just to let you know that I did fix it. Would not have been able to except found a diagram and lots of help on a website. Wanted to post it in case anyone else needed this help.
http://www.g3integra.com/side-jobs/chevy-aveo-lights-not-working/
I didn’t solder I just used marrets to join the correct wires together along with electrical tape to keep them safe. You don’t have much wire to work with but it isn’t impossible. My lights all work great now!
Cheerio
Good to know. Glad you got it fixed!
Looks like yet more underengineering has created another problem.
I would have one concern with the repair as given. It sounds like the splicer is the weakest link in the underengineered chain.
The splicer is removed, the wires are soldered, and that particular area will not be a problem again.
However, the splicer failure would be due to amperage and heat. Once that weak link is cured one has to wonder about the next weak link in the chain.
An electrical issue could crop up in months, years, or maybe never but future problems are something to be considered.