1st I have to point out that my car is a freak of nature. The ignition has been rerouted and uses what looks like a master lock key to start the car. The radiator has the original opening on it, as well as another area that takes anti-freeze nearer the top right (passenger) area, and there’s a run off container on the front right area. The thermostat was replaced last year (it’s in the hose and clamped shut on each side) yet I still have either no heat or very little heat after the car is warmed up. That is PROBLEM ONE. The current problem is that it won’t start. It turns over, but won’t start when it is cold outside(below freezing), OR recently WHEN IT IS HOT (or has been driven for 30-60 minutes or more) When it is hot (the engine not the temp outside) it takes like 30 - 55 minutes to cool down and then it will start. if it starts while still somewhat hot, the temp gauge drifts out of the C area and in the front portion of the H area. I already burned up one engine so I pull over if i can, but then it won’t start again. NOW however in this cold weather, it just cranks and doesn’t start. The battery is good, and jumping it for extra power doesn’t help. When it has started around the 38 degree outside temp, and I put it in a heated garage for an hour or so she fires right up and starts really strong! Could this be a need for a fuse somewhere? I recently noticed my GPS stopped working as the cig lighter no longer gave power. I’ve already replaced the spark plugs and wires (less than a year ago) I really need help here as I lost my job and finding a new one depends on so much, including a vehicle I can rely on. Thanks in advance for any input/help!
Tom
OMG,
Sorry I’m shocked that there is one still on the road. Heres the basics. Air, fuel spark. Given trouble with both hot and cold I’m gonna say start with spark. Look at the wires but mostly the ignition coil. Fuel may be the cold problem but cold also attracts condensation to the ignition wires, cap and coil. I think I remember that this used a renault bocsh fuel injection system. In that case it has a separate cold start fuel injector that could be an issue to look at. The oldschool way was to pull it out and put it in a cup while cranking the engine for a FEW seconds.
The heat is probably the mix valve by the firewall. It sent a fraction of the hot water into the heater coil by using a cable from the temp control inside. It is metal with water corroding its insides. You can try putting a wrench on it and see if it will wiggle open. Other wise my shade tree sense says remove valve and just run hot water straight to the heater core during winter. Youll need two pieces of the right size pipe and four clamps. Save the valve you maybe able to get it to work with a good cleaning. Good luck sounds like this will be your job for a little while.
Let me see if I can wrap my brain around this one. But first a disclaimer: I’ll try to add some generic thoughts, as I know nothing of these old French cars except that they look funny.
“it won’t start. It turns over, but won’t start when it is cold outside(below freezing), OR recently WHEN IT IS HOT (or has been driven for 30-60 minutes or more) When it is hot (the engine not the temp outside) it takes like 30 - 55 minutes to cool down and then it will start.”
Nonstarting when hot is a typical symptom of a breakdown in the ignitoin system. For this I’d suggest starting by checking to see if you have spark. You can do this with a spark tester or a spare plug. Put a plug wire on the plug, hold the outer electrode (or threads) against ground, and turn the engine over. If you see nothing, you’ve lost spark. Post the results.
“I still have either no heat or very little heat after the car is warmed up.”
Euryale may be right, but it could also be a heater core with years of residue insulating the heater core from inside. If bypassing the valve doesn’t help, try to find a new heater core.
“if it starts while still somewhat hot, the temp gauge drifts out of the C area and in the front portion of the H area”
This may be normal as long as it comes back down again. The areas around the cylinders are hotter than the water jacket where the temp sensor is. When you turn the engine off, the coolant stops flowing by that area and the heat from in and around the cylinders begins to propogate directly through the water jacket and out the sides of the engine as radiant heat. The temperature around the sensor will rise, as will the underhood temperature.
Post back with how you make out. We care.
Great answers! Not that I am qualified to judge them on an old Renault.
I see new Renaults in Mexico City at times. Also very old ones limping along, and an occasional Peugeot.
My niece works for a high ranking government dude, and he gave her an Alfa Romeo, I think it was, to drive on official trips. She drove us once to a wedding with it. Nice enough car.