Hi please help i replaced the control arm and tie rods and swaybar link on my 2011 ford edge sel front wheel drive becuase i heard clunking noises when i turned and then i replaced them and now the clunking noise is there when i turn the wheel all the way instead of a little bit but now it feels like the driver side breaks are engaged a bit i cleaned them and noise went away a little bit but the noise is only there in drive not in reverse. Please help. If anyone can help i am leaving my phone number but i will check the fourm to
Brandon
Any help will be appreciated.
I’m thinking you’re having some sort of front axle problem there, likely a failing CV joint. If you know how, visually check the CV boots. Notice any of them are torn, any grease escaping?
Here’s another test you could try. Come to a full stop in an empty parking lot, then slowly turn to the right as sharply as possible, start moving a little, slowly at first. Notice any changes to the noise? Next try that same thing, only turning left.
Concur with advice above to never post phone numbers. Best case, a slew of advertisers calling you day and night.
…if you did, you could call that number and walk him though the repair.
Not every nation has ninja warriors poised to attack people with noisy cars.
I already get that. The call block function on my phones are full. damn parasites.
Thanks for the heads up i will try this out and i am trying to take my phone number off but cant. Will the cv joint make the driver side feel like the breaks are engaged a little bit becuase it will only feel like its pushed in a bit only in drive but not in reversed.
click on the pencil to edit it out.
I guess my only question is, you replaced the control arms, tie rods, and links, but you did not replace the struts? Struts and links would be a main source of noise. Also stabilizer bushings? It really depends on the type of noise. I don’t understand the brake issue, they are either hanging up or not. Would be a separate issue.
Secondly, you did get an alignment after the tie rods?
Clunks for me have been upper strut mounts. Those struts swivel with every turn. At sharp rattle has been more worn links. Severe clunks have been more ball joints that were very loose. Clicking on turns indicate a cv joint. So really depends on the type of noise. Just in my experience anyway as a driver, not a mechanic.
By “it” are you referring to the brake pedal feels like it is being pushed when this noise? That’s not a common symptom of a damaged CV joint. A problematic wheel bearing could be the more likely cause that symptom.
As already posted, to edit your original post, all you have to do once signed in is click on the icon at the bottom of your top post that looks like a little pencil. If you look through the thread, only your posts will have that pencil. Posts by other folks here won’t show it.
I wish there was a website where folks who are getting these calls could post what they are hearing. Wouldn’t stop the calls, but at least would provide a heads up. I expect this idea isn’t possible b/c the folks who are making the unwanted advertising calls are the same that are paying $$ to the politicians’ campaign funds.
Remember that Dec 2020 $600 Covid relief payment that arrived as a debit card? I’m guessing part of the purpose of using a debit card, rather than simply mailing a check or direct deposit, was the debit card allows them to obtain your telephone number. “Yipee!” say the advertisers, a big list of more numbers to call!!
@cdaquila Carolyn would you remove the phone number for Brandon as he does not know how.
check out this video. start at about 1 minutes 30 seconds
Ford Edge Front End Clunking Noise…2 Most common problems - YouTube
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Yeah the OP replaced the stabilizer link but not the strut for some reason. We might be leading them down the path with brakes, axle, CV, etc. than dealing with the original noise.
Every 9-12 months, I clear the list of blocked numbers on my landline phone because the scammers almost always switch to new numbers after a while. I suggest that you clear the blocked numbers on your phone, and start blocking numbers anew–as you receive them. Calls that don’t display the name of the caller, and/or calls from states where I don’t know anyone are prime candidates for “new” blocking.
If your land line is VOIP, your provider might have a phone spam blocker. We use Comcast VOIP, and they provide Nomorobo with the phone service. It has cut down dramatically on spam calls. I think that service is also available for cell phones, and of course, there are others.
I’ve heard that regular old land lines are the phone-scammers favorite target. Maybe this is part of the reason.