CAN THE CARS ECM BE CHECKED OUT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE?
is it a lets say 1969? model? THEN NO.
I’m very interested to HELP YOU.
SORRY MAN. ITS A 1991 FORD E350 WITH A 5.8 I CANT KEEP IT RUNNING. IT STARTS RIGHT UP RUNS FOR ABOUT 20 SEC THEN STALLS. IVE CHANGE THE FRONT FUEL PUMP FILTER,REGULATOR,IGNITION MODULE SOME FOLKS SAID IT COULD BE THE ECM, SO I GROUNDED THE FUEL PUMP FROM THE DIA. PLUG AND THAT DIDNT WORK, PUMP WAS RUNNING EVEN AFTER IT STALLED. IM GOING BROKE CHANGING PARTS THAT ARENT BAD
Is the check engine light on? And, please, turn off the all caps. It is hard to read, and is like shouting in these forums. Any other sensors on this truck can be checked before you replace them. Pick up a Haynes manual for $15, and they have the test procedures for each of the sensors.
To be any more general, let’s find out what system is failing to cause the stall. An engine needs 4 things to run:
- Air - Check the intake tube, filter, and throttle body.
- Fuel - Check the fuel pressure and use a mechanic’s stethoscope to listen to the injectors. A long screwdriver can be used like a stethoscope by cupping your ear to the handle end.
- Compression - A simple compression check will tell you if you have a problem with the cylinders. I suspect everything is OK here, since it does start and run for 20 secs.
- Ignition - Are you getting a reliable spark after the engine stalls, or does the spark look inconsistent or weak?
Most of these tests can be done before investing any more money.
sorry about caps. when i check the spark it was a pretty strong orange color, i do have a msd coil on it. when the van starts it runs great no misses or anything like that. it just acts like its running out of fuel. throttle body is fine. intake tube is off right now because i changed the ign. module. im not sure if the rear fuel pump is working, the gas gauge for the rear pump doesnt work and they are connected as 1 unit. i was trying to find out if the rear pump goes out will it affect the whole fuel system. the tank lector switch is working fine. when the van broke down on me monday it was running off of the rear tank.
and there arent any warning lights and the check engine light goes off like its supposed to.
First let me suggest that since you have already started a thread on this problem you shouldn’t start another one for the same problem. Others readers that haven’t been following the other thread will really know what is going on and has been tried to solve the problem.
In answer to your question, the ECU needs to be connected up to a live system in order to see what is going on. If you suspect the ECU is at fault then the best thing to do is replace it with a known good one.
Pulling trouble codes on this is such a quick & simple thing to do that I would give it a shot.
A couple of codes that might explain whats going on here are:
70 problem with ECA/electronic control assembly-failure in data communications link
19 Failure in ECA/electronic control assembly-problems with internal voltage regulator
14 intermitant loss of PIP signal. The PIP keeps the pump running after the engine is started.
I’m no expert on this, but pulling the codes is the first thing I would have done when this quit running. Always good to eliminate the simple stuff first.
Since you dont have a scanner take a look at batauto.com click on trouble codes & Ford. Follow the directions for pulling the codes with a voltmeter.
ECA & ECU are the same thing.
i talked to a ford mechanic and he said if the check engine light isnt coming on its probably not the ecu, but maybe a short in the ignition switch. but i will try the website you said ranger thanks again.
hey ranger. i used a test light and ideasjumper wire like the site said to. just as the motor was about to stall the test light flashed 4 times. any ideas about that. thanks
The 4 flashes indicate that you are testing a V-8…
Since this thing wont stay running long enough to do the engine running test, you’ll need to pull the codes with key on engine off.
BTW, heres a simple little trick to see if the Ford guy is right about the ignition switch.
Hold the key at the start position & when it starts have a buddy remove the wire with the rubber boot from the side of the starter relay. The wire just pulls off & it will stop cranking when it’s removed.
Does it keep running when you hold the key at start?
hey ranger. are you talking about the starter selinoid? if you are i have that set up on a push button starter because the wire going to the starter was bad. had to keep using a screw driver to start the van, so i just hooked up a push button, which worked great and still starts the van.
hey ranger. i tested engine off, first i got a 1-5 which is memory failure, which i got once before with a dia. scanner. i tested again and i got 1-1 pause 1-1 pause 1-1
Well in that case, just hold the key at start & release your start button.
From the testing that you’ve done in this thread and the other, it sure sounds like the ECA is whacked.
Or the PIP signal is missing.
Theres a sensor in the distributor that generates the PIP. No PIP no pump.
The last time that I pulled codes on my Ranger I asked the scanner gods to grant me a code 29. Sure enough the scanner flashed a 29 (bad vehicle speed sensor)& I knew why my cruise control was’nt working.
In your case a code 14 would be kinda handy.
no it doesnt keep trying to start, the brake light flashes on, thats it. where in the distributor is the pip? is that the pick up coil? i changed the module, should i change the coil too?
Well the code 15 is dissapointing, apparently the battery was disconected & of course that erased any codes that might have given you a clue on this.
If I had only one guess, i’d say the ECA is the problem, but i dont know how you would test it to prove that.
hey ranger. do you know where the put the ecm on this van?
ranger i read on another site that it could also be the eec relay. any idea where that is? thanks buddy
If the EEC relay was bad, you would’nt get the check engine light & the pump would’nt prime for 2 seconds when you turn the key to run.
The ECM will have a 40 or so pin/wires connector plugged into it. I have no idea where it is. A good guess would be under the dash/passenger side kick panel.
On my 95 Taurus, it’s under the hood passenger side on the firewall.
I’ve heard the folks at A-1 cardone/888 280 8324 can be very helpfull with problems like this.
They rebuild auto electronics including computers. Maybe they can tell you how to test yours, or where to get it tested.
yea i found the relay, its fine. the ecm is also under the hood below the fan motor. i guess im gonna have to buy a new 1 to find out. thanks ranger.