Engine with no compression

Looking for recommendations on next steps on repairing my 2 dr honda accord 4 cyl vtec.

Backstory:
The timing had jumped on the vehicle so i had replaced the head heard mixed answers on weather or not the 4 cyl vtec was a non interference or an interference motor so i ended up replacing the head just to be safe plus also had a head gasket leak anyway so just replaced it entirely. Got a used head from a salvage yeard from a running vehicle and got entirely new head gasket kit and replaced all of the gaskets as well as set timing.

Problem at hand:
After setting the head, timing and reassembling the motor went for the first turn over… got 1 loud blow back from the exhaust then nothing. From there i went back to the basics of checking for spark, fuel, and compression. After checking the spark and fuel decided to replace the spark plugs and distributor with brand new parts just to be sure. After posting a video of the vehicle turning over in an accord specific forum only answer i got was that it sounded like it had no compression.

My questions/concerns:
Is there a possibilty the head is not sealing to the block creating the compression loss?
The new head gasket was thin metal and i am afraid of its malubility in order to fill any scratches or small gaps.
Would i be better off doing a silicone gasket?
What is the possibility that the compression loss is coming from the cylinder rings?

I am willing to do what ever it takes to repair this vehicle has too much sentimental value but would rather DIY the repair for the experience. Not a mechanical professional but i know my way around replacing parts pretty well.

Did you check the replacement head for flatness with a precision straight edge and feeler gauge before installing it?

Tester

No, surface was never precision tested for flatness nor was it ever resurfaced. A friend recommended getting it resurfaced but said it wasnt required to be done so i skipped it due tk being young, dumb, and broke.

Did you reuse the old head bolts?

Tester

I tried both head bolts from the old head as well as head bolts from the used head. All were torqued to spec as well.

The head bolts are a torque to yield stretch bolts, they require replacing every time the head is removed…

Did you install the timing belt correctly??

Did you do a compression test to verify compression??

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Okay. So a good next step to take would be getting brand new head bolts due to possibilty of current bolts being stretched and not getting a true torque? And yes, from what ive heard its hard to mess up timing on the 4 cyl, ive reset timing at least 20 times as well as had multiple people check to make sure it was correct.

What timing are you resetting?? Distributor (ignition timing)?? or valve to piston timing (timing belt from crankshaft to camshaft)??

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Those two statements say you took two torpedoes into the side of your ship and it sunk.

Anyone who’s worked with Honda engines knows, you never install a used head either from the original engine or from a different engine without checking flatness (run-out) first.

Because when aluminum heads are removed, they can warp due to locked in stresses.

And you never reuse the head bolts because they’re torque-to-yield bolts. And can only be used once.

So, you’ll have to start all over again

Tester

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I think it could be the timing belt.

Resetting the the cam to crank timing.

All belts on the motor have been replaced brand new.

Okay. I currently already have the head removed. I should start with resurfacing head and getting brand new head bolts?

Resetting it means you had to correct it right?? If the timing belt was off you probably bent a valve…

No i was resetting due to failure to start. I was restting the timing before i got opinions about compression loss. Thought i had spark, fuel, and compression since i had redone gaskets, checked fuel, and replaced all spark. I made sure to triple check timing via videos and pictures and had father check as well before motor was turned over every time.

If you are unable to check for flatness (runout), then yes.

Do you have a torque angle gauge?

If not, you’re going to need one for the new head bolts.

Tester

I do not but i am not new to renting odd ball tools from auto zone. I will definitely look into the tool and getting a tool to check run out on the head.

You need to probably send the head to a machine shop and have it decked and checked, and possibly have a valve job done while it is there…

Then you need to buy a book on how to rebuild a Honda engine and read it cover to cover so you understand why and what everything does…

And if you didn’t use the tool Tester just showed, what was the torque spec you used??
And do you even know the proper torque sequence??

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Tester

Yes, i got all of my torque specs and torque sequencing from the vehicles online repair manual.
And torque spec i used was just a standard torque wrench torqed to ft/lbs