That sure is the truth…the cheap stuff costs WAY more than you think
Agree with “cheap stuff” does not pay. Over the last 10 years or so I’ve had to contend with 1 bad radiator, two bad rebuilt starters, one bad rebuilt alternator, and a few cheap appliances that failed one week after the warranty ran out.
With labor at $94 per hour here, going cheap on replacement parts is nonsense, like buying cheap paint for your house.
OK a little update. I went out and bout the OEM tsat. and…no change. Low engine temp and low cabin temps. (the temps outside is in the 40s by the way) And I still have most of the Radiator blocked off. And Yes the system is burped to the best of my knowledge. I’m not Doubting the importance of burping the system but the research Ive done on the internet and the people I have talked to all say that A not burped engine would cause overheating not under heating. So any other ideas? Should I try the RTV around the T stat in case the the block warped a bit and coolant is passing by?
Oops… typo… I bought a T stat not bout one.
This is copied from asemaster’s post above: “There’s not much that can keep your engine running too cold other than a thermostat failing–opening too soon, never properly closing, opening at the prescribed temperature but not closing again if the temp drops.”
I just copied it b/c that’s about it - there’s nothing else. So, I guess, yes I’d try the RTV. Also humor everyone and get the front end of the car way up in the air and run it for a good long time. I have a small bank at my house that I drive onto, or I use my ramps. Whatever it is, get your radiator cap to be higher than every other thing in the cooling system and run it. Also starting the car from cold let it idle and “warm” up. Keep a close feel on the upper radiator hose. It should stay cold for quite a while & not gradually warm.
The effects of air bubbles in the coolant aren’t all one thing. It depends. One thing, though is that if air gets trapped in the heater core it will mean no heat. I’m wondering what you’ve been using to give you the coolant temps. If its just the car’s gauge I wonder if you haven’t gotten an independent check of that. What if you had both a faulty temp sensor and air in your heater core? You coolant could be up to temp, but the sensor throws the gauge off while air in the core keeps you thinking the coolant really is cold. Ok. That’s a long shot, but its not impossible. Do you have an IR thermometer? Shoot the t-stat housing after driving the car for a while & see what you get.
BTW: at the top of any post you’ve made you’ll see “Edit” - if you click it you can fix your typos where you made them.
This is my first visiit to this thread, and I’ve read it with interest. You have some of the best responding. However, I’d like to add some thoughts.
Proper engine operating temp is a result of not only proper coolant flow, but also proper operation of the cooling fans and of the engine. I’m convinced that you’ve done the due diligence to ensure that your T-stat isn’t the problem. Have you checked the operation of the cooling fans? If they’re constantly operating, they could be dissipating too much heat. I know this is a stretch, as the T-stat should simply stay close din that scenerio and especiallly since you’ve blocked the radiator mostly, but it’s a thought not yet metioned.
How tired is the engine? If it’s well past its prime, and not operating on all cylinders, that could be a contributing factor.
Have you checked the accuracy of your temp sensor/gage? Have you measure the actula coolant temp with a “T” fitting and an external thermocouple?
I know these ideas are “out on a limb”, but perhaps it’s tim eto think outside the box. I’m wiling to risk embarassing myself if it means I might stumble on the right answer…or cause someone else to.
I always remove the gauge temp sender near the firewall and fill the rad with coolant until it pours out of the hole in the head. It has always worked for me.
Jeep Forum
If the temp gauge indicates <170*, the radiator cap can be removed after an extended drive and the heater has blown cool for 2 winters it seems somewhat apparent that the engine is not reaching operating temperature. Coolant is by-passing the thermostat or the thermostat is open.
I would use an infra red thermometer to get a REAL reading… and you are slightly mistaken again on that burping…if you have an air pocket…it will be up high…right where the temp sensor is…if the temp sensor is sitting in an air pocket, you will get a low reading…all the time, without fail…(HOWEVER the engine will actually be running hot in places…very hot sometimes) the sensor obviously needs to be immersed in coolant. So just re-iterating the importance of the big burp… anywho…got an infra red Thermometer? They bout 20 bucks at walmart and Harbor Freight…an invaluable little piece of kit.
Blackbird
First of all THANK YOU for all the input! I will try getting front end up like you said. I have been checking coolant temp with a digital Meat thermometer. I do not have an IR thermometer. I did see on the net about removing the temp sensor And the guy at the dealer said to remove a heater hose until coolant comes out (which I did). Afer I installed the Oem T Stat I did hold on the the upper rad hose and it did stay cool for the most part all the way up to around 170 or so While both Heater hoses, got considerable warmer.
And FYI the engine has about 190000 miles on it.
And on a side note am I takin a chance on overheating the tranny by blockin off so much raditor? It Might be Sunday before I can work on it Again to any extent
IR thermometers are a great tool, but you want to be sure to measure right at the sensor mount. IR thermometers measure surface temp. The best way is to add a “T” fitting where the temp sensor is muonted and have both the temp sensor and a seperate temp sensor/thermocouple in the lluid. That gives you a “read” of the accuracy of your normal temp gage.
If you’re blocing off the bottom area of the radiator, than yes, you may be risking overheating the tranny fluid. I believe your vehicle has the tranny cooler built onto the radiator assembly at the bottom. If I’m wrong, someone here please correct me.
When using my IR therm…I aim it at all sorts of goodies… The heads, block…and even the vertical tubes of the radiator as well…Mine has a little red laser pointer built in…its really a great tool to have…gives a very good picture of whats what and where…
As for the tranny, I don’t think you have much to worry about…the cooler is there to provide extra insurance when under heavy loads etc…and I don’t think you are doing severe duty while you are testing. So I wouldn’t worry too much about it…plus its FREEZING where I am, so…if you are out East that’s further protection…I wouldn’t sweat that issue at all…
Blackbird
I wholeheartedly agree that it’s a great tool. I use mine a lot. I even used mine to find areas in my ol’ house that needed addressing, areas with insufficient insulation. Mine too has the laser pointer. I assumed they all did.
I suggested there was risk to the tranny because the OP said he was driving in 40 degree temps, and if he['s covered up that portion of the radiator and is driving in a hilly area on the highway, it’s better to be safe than sorry.
True Mtnbike…I didn’t know how he was driving when going thru all of this. I still don’t think he needs to worry…just uncover that part of the rad… …uncover all of it…while doing this work. Fix the issue, really shouldn’t be too too difficult…and is more than likely an instrumentation issue…Would REALLY like to see some readings from an IR thermometer here…
BTW, the tranny cooler is in the radiator and is cooled with coolant, not air. Therefore, if the coolant is not getting to operating temp, you will not overheat the transmission fluid.
As far as the car is concerned, there must be a by-pass for the coolant to get around the thermostat. Check the hose routings and make sure the coolant from the engine is not getting into the top of the radiator somehow around the upper radiator hose or around the thermostat housing. Check for cracks in the thermostat housing and base. The coolant is not staying in the engine like it is supposed to somehow.
Thats exactly right…for some stupid reason I was picturing an external cooler… DUH…
When I get a lil extra money I will Invest in a IR Therm. I am currently flat broke. Thanks for the info on the tranny. IF I get a chance this weekend I ll uncover rad. Just to see what the does to engine temp on gauge. Also I do believe there was also an auxiliary tranny cooler in front of the rad.
The one in front of your rad is more likely your A/C coil.
Naw the A/C is the entire length and width of the rad…so that external will be the tranny
Did you ever figure out the problem??