Engine clicking, and car vibrations

I have a 2006 Lincoln zephyr. 3.0l v6. With fwd. I bought the car off Craig’s list, from a private owner.

When I got it, back brakes were complete crap. Looks like never changed. Put on new rotors, new pads. The car was still vibrating, and making noises from the tires. Changed front brakes and rotors. Car was jerking when braking or at really slow speeds (0-15mph) even tho jerking goes away, the vibration was still there. Went to ntb today, they changed my oil, rotated tires, and balanced front tires. The jerking gradually got better, I can’t say it’s there at all. As for vibration, still there, and tires in back are still a little loud. Someone told me my rim is bent? That does sound like something that could be causing this?? Another thing I have noticed is that the jerking in the car and the vibration get worse after driving for a while or when my sound system has been on for a while. Another thing today, after the oil change, I got home, and noticed a clicking sound coming from the engine. Seems as if the clicking starts after the car has been driven a little bit, then stays on until you turn it off and let it sit for a while. Anyone had this problem?? Know what it could be?? IS MY CAR drivable?!?!? I can post picture of where the clicking is coming from if that helps.


Oka friend looked it for me, his guess is the valve. But after reading some of the forums here someone said to check coolest, completely nothing. Put coolest in, drove around the block pop the hood, the fan by radiator was spinning super fas blowing cold air hard, and the clicking noise got louder. Turned more into riddling. I’m guessing it’s not drivable

A bent rim will cause the car to shimmy. Bad tires that are separating internally can cause it too. They will be noisy too. A bent rim will wear the tires prematurely. Check you oil level and make sure it is correct. Valves will make noise if the oil is low. Valves will not make noise when the car is off. Not sure if this is what you meant.

Well the oil pressure light didnt come on. It used to come on when car was at stop no acceleration, but stopped after back breaks change. Doesn’t make sense. Also I got my oil changed yesterday so Idk why the levels would be abnormal. But I did notice the clicking, after the oil change. Not sure if it was there before or not but I don’t think so. Also the ticking gets faster with rpm raise


Don’t get upset, please

I hope you didn’t pay a lot, because it’s beginning to sound like someone passed off their POS car onto you.

Thanks for help @db4690 , I don’t eed your opinion I just need help to figure out the problem,

When you say “coolest” I assume you mean coolant. If it was empty that is a sign of bad news. Is the level still correct or has it been added too? The clicking is more than likely from a valve lifter that is going bad or has gone bad. If the miles are high I would attempt getting oil additives and high mileage oil, change the engine oil and see if the clicking goes away. Many of the additives sold at parts stores will swell the seals in the lifters making them work again, assuming they are not shot. As for the vibration, it sounds like a steering or drivetrain issue. It sounds like it does not do it when the car is parked, so that takes the engine out of the equation, does it seem to do it between a certain speed? More so left turns then right turns or vise versa? Tell us every little detail you noticed about the problem, even items such as " it does it when car is in reverse but not moving but not it forward (Drive) not moving.

Did you have a mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection on this?

Yes I ment coolant. Since thank I put coolant in it and it held up. Doesn’t seem to leak. The car is at about 61k miles. And I noticed the clicking/tapping noise right when I got home from getting an oil change. As for oil pressure the light would come on when car was slowing down or at a stop and as soon as I accelerated it went off. After a few days it was completely gone. I also have a 1800w sound system in my car, got the battery tested today and alternator. Battery was fine but the guy said the alternator was reading at 12v when car started then moved up to 2. The car jerking happens when I break but not hard just slightly tapping the breaks. I know I need to get my breaks bleeded as I accidentally let air into them. As for vibration and sounds car steadily but very little vibrates and also jerks when at speeds or 0-15mph with light acceleration. Turning doesn’t make a difference as the car makes a light “wooh wooh wooh” sound from tires that gets quieter when going faster yet still noticeable. I’m not much worried about the tires as the engine.

With the brakes, when you lightly apply then do you feel feedback in the pedal, like you feel the pedal pushing back at you that seems to coincide with the “wooh wooh wooh?” If so the cause of that is warped rotors.

With the engine and low oil pressure light at idle, does the car seem like it is going to stall (rough running) at idle? Where did you go to get the oil changed, a friend or a professional? Also what oil weight did they use (10w-30)? It could be that the oil is not correct for the engine being to low of a viscosity and not being able to hold the surface area needed to create correct oil pressure.

with the alternator and the sound system, 14.4 volts is nominal when running with out much load on it, but the other needed item is the output of the alternator is amps, is it 95, 105, etc… if the alternator is of low amp output you may need to get a capacitor it the sound system to prevent the alternator from being overworked and thus being destroyed.

May I ask how you “accidentally let air into the system?”

This is where the clicking seems to be coming from, and i dont remember if I said so but the clicking gets faster with the engine. Like when I rev up the engine or accelerate. And rotors are fine just replaces all 4. And I couldnt get one o the pads to go over rotor and I unscrewd it from the hose. As for the vibration could it be because og a bad rim? Bent or cracked. I also have used tires that arent so good. And all 4 are different. I got the oil change done at the National Tire And Battery (NTB) so im sure they used the righg oil. And no it never seemed to feel like its going to stall. And lateley ive noticed just overall engine has been louder. And mabe hotter? Idk if that makes swnse

And my altenator is the factory stock one. 150Amps and the wire hit I have for the amp is I think 60amps max. Atleast thats what the fuse on the cable says

I like the picture, it is helpful. I am quite certain that you clicking or tapping is a lifter with in the engine, There are oil additives that have worked for me in the past to clear it up.


But I am concerned with your low oil pressure light. If a sensor goes bad it is normally always bad. If it is a wire to the sensor it can be intermit, but you engine has lower than normal pressure during idle, so if there is a problem where oil pressure is being lost, it will show up at idle because of the low volume the oil pump is producing at that point.

At this point all I can give you is education of the system, and the advice to get a professional to look it over with you telling them of what you think it is.

For your possible rim issue, take it to NTB or any other place that spin balances tires, and have them balance yours. Once the problem rim is being tested if it is bent or “out of round” it will vibrate like crazy on the machine and will be visible to the techs doing the work.

Okay thank you for your imput and help. I have one last question. I need to get to work everyday. So is the car drivable for the mean time (untill I can get it to the shop). The oil pressure light does not come on any more. As it stoppes a few weeks ago. And no other lights came on ever

Keep eye on the fluid levels, oil and coolant. Also be alert or any items that are new, like sounds, rough idle, missing, things in that nature.

I am not going to tell you yes or no, but don’t put off the visit for long. A few hundred bucks here will save you thousands down the road.

Think of you car as your body, if you were sick with signs of a fever (possible coolant loss issues) and being dehydrated and weak (possible low engine oil pressure) would you run a marathon? I would not, so if that is the case don’t force your car to do the same. (Bad analogy I know, but I hope it gets the point across) Good luck.

Okay thank you for your imput and help. I have one last question. I need to get to work so is the car drivable for a. Few days just to work and back. Also for the sounds, my alte ator is a 150amps is that enough or no?? Its a 1800w am nd the wire kit is for uo to 60amps atleast the power cord has a 60 amp fuse holding it together