There is only one switch, do you mean switching from auto mode to manual?
Push the switch down for ten seconds, pull the switch up for ten seconds to try to initialize the parking brake.
My co-worker always removes the actuators and retracts the pistons manually. I asked him if the warning message appears, only once when he forgot to release the parking brake before disassembly. No faults shown in the control module, the solution; cycle the switch twice.
The last one I bought, in 1993, cost $200 was 2 books and was a total of 14 inches wide. Yeah, I don’t miss those days
If I recall correctly our manual for the JCB was nearly $700 and it came on a cd that had an old Adobe Acrobat interface that had to be run on a win7 laptop,
Of course, for a “local garage”, which is in the business of repairing customers’ vehicles for a profit, it makes sense to subscribe to these type of services. However, I am not a business. I am a DIYer who works on my own personal vehicles.
Good luck with that. I would assume that these technical services use the same type of technological protection which J.Wiley & Sons uses for PDF textbook downloads and for time-limited viewing of academic papers, which displays in a web page an encrypted PDF file which is restricted against printing or copying and pasting.
Obviously, if you can view something on your screen, you can hit Alt+Print Scrn and take a screenshot, paste the screenshot into Paint, edit as needed, and print. However, if you need to print more than a few pages, this gets really tedious, really fast.
I’ve never regretted purchasing the factory service manual book at the time I purchased my VW Rabbit and my Corolla. Well worth the cost. I purchased either a Haynes or Chilton’s manual too, to go along with the factory manual. It’s often the case that one manual offers a clear explanation of something, while the other doesn’t. And visa versa.
For my 50 year old Ford truck, with a simpler drivetrain design than the other two, I only have the Chilton’s and Haynes manual, no factory manual. The only time I’ve needed the truck’s factory manual was to replace the clutches in the differential third member. For that I found the procedure from a Mitchell’s shop manual they had at the local library. If I wanted the truck’s factory manual, it’s readily available in CD format for about $25.
I’m guessing the reason factory manuals in book format are no longer available is b/c they’d take so many pages. They’d likely have to published as a 2 or 3 volume set. Let alone the verbage & diagrams required to explain the complexity of the emissions system, SRS system, anti-lock brakes, entertainment systems, etc, just the wiring diagrams these days take hundreds and hundreds of pages. For contrast, my truck’s entire wiring diagram takes just 3 1/2 pages.
It’s not that much of a problem to not have a factory repair manual in paper form. Provided that the owner can access it for a small fee from the manufacture’s website. Add to that the many pertinent web pages and utube vdo’s available. I’m presuming Chilton’s and Haynes are still publishing their repair manuals, which will cover most of the common diy’er tasks. Up until the late 1970’s most car-knowledgeable diyer’s could do most of the maintenance and repairs themselves in their driveway. On modern cars, many of the tasks are best left to a repair shop b/c of a requirement for specialized information & tools, high end diagnostic equipment etc.
And if you plan to open your wallet wide enough to purchase a new car, there’s no reason you can’t ask the dealership to toss in access to the shop manual too. As long as you haven’t forked over your loot, the purchaser has a good deal of control over the negotiation.
Thank you.
Shall tryvhen I geto the Letsuck.
The push-button (o) HOLD switch causes thelectronic parking brake to apply when in Park.
(We leave it off.)
The (P) lever switch is pulled up to turn the thelectronic parking brake ON - in Park, Reverse or any gear.
Must be pushedown to release thelectronic parking brake.
(Before departing on an emergency transport, I use it withengine in gear to apply load to thengine and warm it up better while I am outside cleaning theadlights and light bar.)
Am I reading this correctly? Are you saying that the car is in gear and only the parking brake is holding it while there’s no driver in the car? If so, this is stupid, to be blunt.
The “Hold” button is the hill-hold feature, intended to be used in drive, automatically releases when the accelerator is pressed.
This vehicle will outlive you, no need to for the absurd warm-up practices.
Think again . . .
Try 5 volumes or more
Absurd practice and R. Gift are pretty much the same thing.
Yes. The vehicle is idling in DRIVE with thelectric parking brake holding it fromoving while I clean theadlights and light bar.
Since Drive applies load to thengine, it my help thengine warm a little more quickly.
Though I always try to be gentle, it is better for thengine to be as warm as possible before pushing it.
Robert, please stop doing this!! if the brake fails or the electronics you can get run over or pinned. your vehicle will not warm up any faster to be worth it.
Good point!
Have never had a problem since thengine is only in idle and both doors are open for me to jump in.
The SUV is also facing up hill, so idle speed would start out moving slowly.
Just idle in Park and lethengine rpms be higher under no load while cleaning.
(When I arrive home I wanto clean everything but at 01-dark-thirty I just wanto lie down and sleep.)
This is NUTS! Stop doing it.
Switch the engine off, stop polluting the air. It is 84 degrees in Denver, CO.
Buthengne ain’t.
Does not hotter, sooner, mean thexhaust is catalyzed sooner, better?
(Takes only a minute to clean.)
(Now to replace the oil draining for the last severahours. New oil filter already installed.)
Called “Puffing” in Coldorado, it is now illegal. (Acquaintance had his vehicle stolen whileasily seen puffing in his driveway on a cold winter morning.)
Being a registered tree-hugger and Greenie, I have never done it.
But I had thengine under load for the few minutes I had it warm and 0W-20 oil circulating while cleaning lights before departing.
Thank you.
I removed the brake motorso that I could manually screw-in the threaded shaft. The motors screw the shaft out so that it pushes againsthe inside brake pad causing both pads to clamp onto the brake disk.
Once the threaded shaft wascrewed in, and I could fithe caliper withick pads over the brake disk, I reattached each brake motor to its shaft.
Was expecting the brake motors to screw the shaft out, pressing the brake pad againsthe disk, and reversing a small distance so the pads would notouch the disk.
Were you able to restore operation?
