Driveability issues with my '91 Buick Century 3.3L

I finally discovered that driveability issues disappeared as long as I kept the fuel level above the little yellow marker between E and 1/4 tank on the fuel gauge. If the indicator falls into the yellow area the car stalls and is hard to crank until I refuel, what’s up?

Sounds like the fuel pump is weak & needs the “head pressure” from a full tank of gas to help it out.

Get the fuel pressure checked.

The maintenance schedule in your owners manual probably sez to change the fuel filter at around 50K miles, Was it?

Yep, and I’ll start a controversy, but probably caused by running it all the time between the little yellow part and the 1/4 tank mark. I never let the cars get much under 1/2 tank in case of a Russian nuclear attack, floods, or terrorists.

Weak fuel pump perhaps caused by low fuel level. Gas passing through the pump cools the pump. They’re kind of a pain to change out as the pump is in the fuel tank. Gotta get as much fuel as you can out of the tank. You’ll never get it all out because of the built-in baffles but you can get enough out so you’re not dealing with a heavy tank. A flexible el-cheapo hand-operated-type bellows pump will keep you from drinking gas. Then it’s disconnect the wring harness, (plug-in type), loosen and put out of the way the fuel lines, remove the large fuel filler hoses, rtc., support the tank with a floor jack and a piece of plywood or 2" X 6" board, loosen the hanger straps, and carefully move the tank around until it’s loose enough to drop it onto the jack. Jacking the rear of the Buick up about 18" makes it a lot easier. Use jack stands, of course.
Pay special attention to how your existing pump’s color-coded wires. There is no core charge on fuel pumps so wait until you have your new pump in hand.
When loosening the top ring to get the pump out, use a stiff plastic, wood or brass driver to loosen the retaining ring. NO METAL TO METAL CONTACT HERE! It might all go KaBoom.
Once you’ve figured the wiring to be correct, attach the fine mesh screen onto the new pump, carefully get it back into the tank, and reverse procedure to button it up. Estimated time: a couple of hours depending on your mechanical skill level.
Removing the left-rear tire and wheel also affords you more room to work.
Fuel pressure can be checked under the hood at the rear fuel tube from the tank on the fuel rail with a fuel pressure gauge. G.M. 3.3 L fuel pressure is usually 30-45 P.S.I.

I will get a check on that fuel pressure. If records are correct, present fuel pump is about 47K in, suppose to be GM Delco lifetime warranty from AZ. We’ll see.

No controversy, my daughter spent most of the time in the car in her last year of college. She always thought she could wean it.

Thanks for solid procedures if I were to do this job but I wont. I’ll pass it along to my son and his cousin who is a pretty fair mech. Thanks

I’ll be back to finalize everything when I get this !&%$#*@ fuel pump changed out.