Detailing cars and planes for …too long.
I DO NOT recommend use of any wax or ‘dressings’ (silicone).
Wax will last no more than two months and has a far greater chance of causing water spot damage. Dressings are just BAD.
I use a few ‘sealer’ which can last up to one year. Don’t expect any thing to last longer regardless of claim or price. My fav product for over 10 years now is Nu-Finish (orange bottle). Used as directed it will last a year. It is a cross link poly sealant w ability to condition surface. You will notice after one month (ap) water will no longer bead but will pull or separate and roll off.
You likely have an excellent buffing machine with your tools! The best is a dual action hand sander…gotta use
low profile 5.5 inch foam buf pads and you’ll have a PRO finish. I use ‘orange’ pad for 80% of work and some I do final coat with ‘blue or green’. I purchase on Autogeek.net which has very good detailing info.
Exterior rubber and plastics I luv Renew Protect (.com). These are dry seal products, one w black dye. I have had it last 6 months on tires and a full year on trim.
“Wax… has a far greater chance of causing water spot damage”.
Greater than what? Where’s your proof to back up an astonishing assertion like that? And what “water spot damage” are you talking about? Water spots are either hard water mineral deposits bonding to the car finish, or they’re acidic etches into the finish. Either way, a good coat of a good natural wax or synthetic sealant retards such blemishes, NOT increases them. As for your favorite sealant being a cross link poly sealant, ALL synthetic sealants are cross link polymers, that’s how they work. You do have the part about silicone products right. They should be avoided.
I have a black Miata. Part of the dash is black shining plastic. I use a Swifter to go over the whole dash. It is quick and effective.
I do need help on removal of bugs and tree sap. I tried some Turtle Wax bug remover which says it also works on tree sap. It was not effective. Does the stuff age? How about kerosene in water? Or is there a better product.
We have very hard water. I use a Mr. Clean car wash tool which does a final rinse with ionized water. Sounds like BS but it works great, and I never have to chamois. That means the finish gets rubbed less, and that I believe is a good thing.
NO FOOD OR DRINK ON THE BUS!!!
What is a good way to get wax off of windows? Mine are waxy on the outside and have something (Armorall?) on the inside that won’t come off. Repeated cleanings with a variety of window cleaners has just smeared the stuff on the inside.
Thanks…
When I cleaned my interior recently, I was having trouble with all the dirt caked onto the steering wheel, dashboard, console, and door handles. I had a little Formula 409 left over that I no longer use in the house. It was about as effective as plain water. Then I used a damp cloth with a dab of baking soda. That worked like a charm.
If you eat in the car, you’ll need to deal with your waistline before you clean your car. Americans are so fat, because we eat while doing other things.
I live in the suburbs, where the car reigns supreme. Because the roads are designed for driving only, riding a bicycle (and sometimes even walking) can be dangerous. If the suburb I live in were a little more friendly to bicycles, I would get one in a day. Instead of paying for a gym membership, I could actually save money losing weight and getting in shape.
Don’t drive like grandma. You don’t save gas by driving slower, so long as you stay below 60 mph on the highway. Pay attention. Anticipate stops. The best way to make your car last is to avoid idling the engine.
I’ve had great luck on the interior, exterior, and glass using a solution of about 1 cup white vinegar in about 5 gallons of water. On all surfaces, I apply it with a large sponge. To dry it off, I use a regular old towel on the sheet metal and interior surfaces, then a microfiber or similar rag for glass. For really tough stuff, since my car sees a lot of mud, I just pull out the hose and high-pressure nozzle and blast it away.
One of the ways I detail my car successfully and with less labor as most people I see is: to maintain a clean and orderly car on a daily basis and then when the times comes for a full detail theres less to do.
I have a dashboard brush that I use at red lights to dust the dash and console. I Dont wait for things to become in great need of cleaning before I clean and detail. I cut my time down significantly by doing on going detail in small actions.
It helps!
Make sure you wash from top to bottom and KEEP YOUR SPONGE CLEAN.
One little tiny piece of gravel will destroy the paint.
If you drop the rag then you need to get another one.
In maintaining the vehicles exterior finish, in virtually all circumstances you should not use dish soap no matter how mild it claims to be. The one exception may be if you intend to polish the vehicle and need to remove all wax residues to “start fresh”. Regarding waxes and paint sealants, both have their place. Sealants are becoming the standard now for finish protection- especially for cars that are not garaged or covered in some manner. Sealants are more durable and can provide solid protection for up to six months, depending on climate, driving and cleaning habits. Waxes provide a richer luster than sealants but offer less durability for less time. Again, citing the same factors as sealants, you can honestly expect up to three months of protection from a wax- no matter how expensive it may be.
For seat belts, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL as many detergents/cleaners will actually degrade the integrity of the webbing over time. This occurs as a result of the harshness of the cleaner but also due to the fact that soap residues may remain, attract more dirt than before and abrade the material. Ideally, they should be cleaned with a dry-vapor steamer which most people do not have but a reputable detailer should. You can ask them to simply clean the seat belts.
Dashes and other hard interior surfaces can be cleaned quite effectvely with a diluted all purpose cleaner such as simple green. To avoid overpsray on other panels as well as windows, spray the cleaner on to a microfiber towel till damp and then use seperate ones to dry off excess cleaner and using the same process with your protectant- one microfiber to apply and one to remove and buff.
I am a trained and certified detailer and am always happy to help people out with suggestions eventhough it may seem to contridict my business. Any reputable detailer should be willing to do the same. You can also check out sites such as Attention to Details,Autogeek, Top of the Line and others for great tips and products. Wishing you Well.
Are you talking about periodically cleaning out your vehicle or reducing emmissions?
When you put gas in your vehicle, utilize the trash cans . When you get home, clean out everything from your vehicle. EVERYTHING! As a mechanic, I don’t appreciate lazy filthy vehicle owners. I charge more for stinky filthy vehicles.
Pollution? Vehicles emit 90% less pollution than twenty years ago. We have come a long way .Your glass is more than half full not half empty.
So true!
Common sense usually works. Keep the car well tuned, so it does not generate those “toxic” gasses. Drive sensibly to maximize fuel economy. Keept the tires properly inflated for the same reason.
Park in the shade when you can. Don’t wash the car in your driveway; the runoff will contaminate the rivers. Go to a car wash.
If you live in a cold climate use a block heater on a 2 hour timer.
Most of all, plan your trips as to minimize your overall driving, and avoid drive-through restaurants and banks. Some municiplities are already outlawing these, mostly to reduce traffic jams.
If you walk when you can, you will also do yourself a favor by living longer.
I have a neighbor who practices all this; he deserves “environmental sainthood”. His 2003 Ford Focus has just 16,000 miles on it! The dealer keeps sending him urgent messages that his oil changes are overdue!
You don’t need to do weird things to be kind to the environment.
By far the best method is pressure washing, pressure not to high not to low, some units are in excess of 1750 psi. It is best to use something less than 1000 psi or back away from the engine far enough, say 2 or 3 feet.
As a professional detailer, we use a 750 psi unit with 280 degree water and for some cases we up the temp and change nozzles to full steam. Make sure to protect electrical wiring as much as possible (i.e. plug coils, harnesses, etc) with cellophane wrap this will minimize causing problems with check engine lights or causing the vehicle to start rough.