I hear you all, thank you. But then this comes down to a “he said/she said” situation . . . the best I could produce is an affidavit (if this came before a judge) from the mechanic that the entire sequence of installation was performed properly - I popped the hood when I picked up the vehicle and saw the new coolant fluid and air filter and belts, etc. - the engine company could allege that those were added after the fact . . . ugh
If they did a chemical test method for exhaust gas in coolant, that test is sometimes misleading. There are confirming tests the engine company may want done too. As posted above, their focus on the misc parts in the cooling system is probably to confirm the cooling system is configured and working correctly and isn’t the explanation for the symtom. It sound like the engine company stands by their product. As long as the terms of the warranty have been followed I don’t think you are going to have much trouble getting this corrected. Don’t presume b/c the one test what the problem actually is though, let them go through their follow-ups.
Following up with engine company tomorrow - my mechanic tested all components they requested and they passed - then sent the vehicle to another shop and without sharing any info said, “car had a fire, reman engine installed, cylinder misfiring” - and they found that the vehicle barely passes CO test at idle, rev the engine and it fails - and that one bank of cylinders is at 150, the other bank starts higher and then slowly declines - so, now three indy shops ID gasket issue
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I am pleased to report that the engine company acknowledged a problem and shipped a new engine. So, they stood by the product - now waiting for reimbursement for the new install labor charges. New engine nice and smooth, still need to iron a few things out with the vehicle since picking it up 250 miles ago:
(1) small coolant drip when parked on an incline - nose up or right-side tilt (i.e., at the curb on a banked street)
(2) neutral safety switch or transmission linkage cable - sometimes takes a shift back to “R” before Park engages; if shifting manually down to “1” - move lever to “2” but dash indicator reads “1,” and so up the line - when lever at “N,” dash indicator reads “D” and car drives - assuming they needed to disconnect and reconnect at install and never adjusted it properly again
(3) periodic weird noises - this evening when braking, when reaching about 7 mph (from 30 mph) a scraping/grinding noise from the beneath the center of the car - a few times, not always - and only when braking, not coasting to a stop
Running vehicle in tomorrow to shop to get these resolved - many thanks to all here for your good counsel
You made out better than my daughter did with buying a reman engine. She has her shop buy a Jasper rebuilt engine. engine one came was installed and was leaking oil from head gasket. Had to pull engine and send it back to Jasper for examination, Engine two came and within a few hundred miles, rod knock developed, repeat return and wait. Third engine came , ran fine and didn’t leak, but vibrated at Idle and idle speed kept varying. Took it back several time to shop to try and fix, traded in car.
How about a shout out to the engine company? Readers might want a replacement engine, and knowing the name of this company might give readers a place to start looking.
Glad you got it resolved.
Years ago, my sister flooded my parents new ford car. It had about 20K miles on it. She drove it in high water and water was sucked into the engine and hydrolocked the engine. My parents had a ford reman installed at dealer. Few hundred miles it had a nasty oil leak. It had a cracked block. It is shameful that a cracked block made it through the Ford rebuild process.
A friend gave me a ford 302 engine that was just rebuilt by local rebuild company. It locked up within 20 miles. He got another one installed and somehow kept the locked up engine. I took it apart and the pistons were different bore and crank was turned to different specs. The failure was the used oil pump. It did not look good to me as paying money for a rebuilt engine if it is nothing more than a bastardized job like that. It was minimal work and parts to get the engine functional again.
I personally have only build my own engines these days. I just don’t trust these rebuild companies. I have a Ford V10 on the stand right now I am putting together for a shuttlebus.
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There is an engine rebuilding company in the City of Tonawanda NY called Northeast Machine that I used to deliver to so yjry have been in buisness 30 or more years. It looked like they were doing everything right but I have never bought a rebuilt engine. I am curious to hear from anyone yjay has bought one of their engines. I have either bought a used one from a junkyars od bought a car that would otherwise have gone to the junkyard or in one case just put a good used head on a slant 6 to replace one that was just worn out. The bottom of the lifters were no longet flaf, their bottom was worn cam shaped.
Because rust does in most of our cars,the engines are usually still good, the ones here that need replacing were either flogged a lot or belonged to people who did not check or change their oil.