I suppose some of the options listed here would probably work, jacking the car up sounds reasonable AS LONG as the electrical terminals you need are accessible otherwise its kinda of a waste. My vote goes for the lock smith. Easy, fairly inexpensive and the least amount of stress IMHO.
Now then, the one question that im surprised no one has asked as of yet…why do you think that letting a car sit for 5 days would completely drain the battery??? Do you have a 4-5+ year old battery and have been having issues with it? Or is there something else that is left on eating current when the car is not running? Im just puzzled, letting a car sit for that short of a time should have NO effect on battery charge to the extent that the vehicle wont start nor open the door locks.
Yes getting into the car would be my priority #1…but Im very curious about this battery of yours. Might wanna run a load test at your auto shop or run a multi-meter across the + and - of the battery and read the voltage drop while cranking the engine. Note: Fully charge the battery before attempting, the reading should not drop below 9 volts. If it does it might be time to just change the battery and assure this wont happen to you again.
That one guy…thanks for your advice. I will be going the lock smith option since it will be easiest…I am also a single pregnant woman so jacking up the car myself is not an option. I knew the battery in the car was weak before I let it sit and had to have it jumped a couple times. I believe it is the original battery and was going to replace it the week before but my new Ford escape (company car) just arrived so the old vehicle was not a priority.
I’d also mention that since you only have one key, get a duplicate! It will be a lot more expensive if you ever break or lose your one key and have to get the ignition lock replaced or a key made for it. A duplicate is what, like $2-$3? If this car has a chip in the key it will be more expensive, but still worth it to have a spare. As you have found out, $#!% happens, and it is good to be prepared.
Or you take a lighter and heat up the key, not too hot, and then stick it into the lock. Don’t do that if it has a chip on it.
As for a spare key, if you don’t have a chip on the key, then go to the dealer and have a new key made from the vin number. This will be a brand new key, not a copy of the worn out key that you have now. They don’t cost very much either and sometimes a new key cut from the vin will work when the worn out key does not.
A locksmith can do the same thing but they usually charge a lot more, you can call the dealer to find out how much they charge and then compare to the locksmith. Even if you have a chip, the dealer can cut you a door only key from the vin.
I don’t think the lock is frozen (we have had three 50+ degree days), when I thought it was originally I did use the heat up the key and the hair-dryer technique to no avail. This is what led me to believe the lock is now seized up since I probably have used that key hole once or twice in the past five years. I’m selling the car as soon as I can get into it, get it charged, and get the battery replaced, so I am not worried about having a spare key, even if I did have one now I doubt it would help if the lock is actually seized.
If it isn’t frozen and you can get a spritz straw in there, buy some PB blaster at Home Depot and spray into that lock periodically. Then work the key in and see it it eventually wants to turn. HD has the silicone PB blaster variety and it will loosen anything gunked up.
Instead Of De-Icer Or WD, Both Of Which Are Good Freeze Preventers, But Girlie-Man Sprays, Try Something Like PB-Blaster Applied Inside The Key Slot Using The Supplied Straw (Tube). It Should Do A Better Job Loosening/Dissolving Corrosion, Glop, Mung, And Drool.
Give it several minutes to do its thing and then try the key.
Just re-read the entire thread and an odd thought occurred to me. Is there any possibility that it is not the car battery that is completely dead, but the key fob remote battery? Since the OP cannot enter the car, and presumably nothing happens when she pushes the unlock button and that is the only key, it would seem to be a possibility. Worth checking the key fob battery.
Much cheaper than calling a locksmith. Am I missing something?
" Am I missing something? “
The Key Fob Battery Is Worth A Try, I Guess. However, Umhoneybee Said, ” …car sat in driveway thru a recent five day snow storm after I knew battery was weak (I know…shame on me for not starting it every day). "
It doesn’t take much power to unlock the car doors, and sitting for five days shouldn’t totally kill even a weak battery. Plus the OP said the temperature warmed up to the 50’s.
Your very welcome. I hope all goes well with the current car and the lock smith.
I also understand now about how you were concerned with the batteries life being in jeopardy over the 5 days of inactivity. Anyway, best of luck with the new company car and the new addition to your family.
" It doesn’t take much power to unlock the car doors, and sitting for five days shouldn’t totally kill even a weak battery. "
Correction: It doesn’t take much power to unlock the car doors, and sitting for five days shouldn’t totally kill a healthy battery.
A weak battery could be on its way out and it wouldn’t take much to finish it off totally. Once a cell or two lose a charge and freeze it’s all over.
If the key won’t go into the lock cylinder on the driver’s door, I’ve had good luck with a product called “Victor Lock De-Icer and Lubricant” from Bell Automotive Products. I had a door lock cylinder on the front door to my house that was hard to turn. I happened to be at Rural King farm store and saw the product for a couple of dollars in the automotive section, so I decided I would give it a try. It worked very well. The product comes in an aerosol tube about an inch in diameter and 5 inches long. You just put the nozzle against the key hole and press the cylinder against the lock. I am sure that there are other products on the market that do the same thing, but this product worked for me. I am sure that there are other retailers that carry this product as well.
“A weak battery could be on its way out and it wouldn’t take much to finish it off totally. Once a cell or two lose a charge and freeze it’s all over.”
Good point. You’re right, I hadn’t considered freezing of the battery. But I still think a dead key fob battery is a possibility, however remote
And You’re Right About The Remote Being A Possibility. I Mentioned That 5 Posts Ago.
" The Key Fob Battery Is Worth A Try, I Guess. "
We’ve had nothing but horrendous weather where I live, it won’t stop snowing sideways and temperatures in the single digits and lower. Schools have been closed for three days straight. Just getting in a car is a challenge, let alone trying to start one and drive it. I understand where this request is coming from. It gets old.
I have not seen any suggestions for manually opening the hood for a battery charge, maybe it is not possible, maybe it is a quick talk to a body shop or locksmith. But long skinny arms and a tool might be able to unlatch the hood for a jump.
Barkydog Makes Sense. I Had A Chrysler Product That One Could Pop The Hood With The Twist Of A Long Straight Blade Screwdriver From Under The Front Bumper If One Knew The Trick.
Just one problem, Umhoneybee says, " . . . I am also a single pregnant woman . . . ," and crawling around under a Pontiac might not be the best plan.
