No George, it does say 12.2 V when I start it, and sometimes I have to turn the key 2 or 3 times, but it’s not
dying since we replaced it. Thanks G
My #1 issue now is the car is clearly missing, it backfires or bogs down if I accelerate too quickly, at cruising speed all is well, at idle (at a stoplight) you can feel a “bump” about every 10 seconds (misfire). I think it would help if I knew where the PCM ground wire is located, and probably the ground strap…The battery cables themselves are clean and tight
12.2 volts is too low. There’s something wrong there. Either your volt meter is inaccurate, or you’ve got a phantom draw going on. The phantom draw test is probably the next thing to do.
When you turn the key to “start” and the engine doesn’t start, what does it do? Click? Cranks ok, but doesn’t catch and run?
I understand your number one concern is the missing, but if you got an electrical system problem you have to fix that first before trying to diagnose the missing, b/c the electrical system might be the cause of the missing. Missing will often cause backfires btw.
I went to another auto electrical shop today and they want to charge me $110 for the “initial diagnosis”…I’ve already had the OBD scan done twice! (like I’m going to keep dropping $100 for scans). Do you know if I have to have the PCM reflashed or cleared out with a scantool after disconnecting the battery? I’m wondering if it’s simply the PCM not synced up…Everything I’ve read points to a poor ground to the battery or PCM ground, or the PCM needs to be reset. A couple of sites mention the coils…
Ok, I’ve just been using the driver info center to read the volts, 12.2 at startup and 14.6-15.1 when driving
The problem with cars now-a-days is you’ run out of money before you run out of guesses. If I had that problem I’d measure the voltage with a known good volt meter as the first step. If it showed it was truly 12.2 volts, I’d do a phantom current draw test.
In my opinion, you’ve got a parasitic draw
That would explain the 12.2V at startup
And 14.6V - 15.1V when driving is on the high side . . . sounds like the alternator is working hard, trying to recharge a weak battery
That makes sense, I just replaced the battery a few weeks ago, it should never be “low” unless it’s not getting fully recharged by the alternator, which goes with your vampire draw analysis. I know how to check that now using the ohms on my ammeter, assuming we find the number is high, any idea where I should begin to find the source of the draw? The prevailing theory is it’s related to my charging system, which would explain why I often have to turn my ignition 2-3 times to start the car…an issue that did not exist before .
You don’t check parasitic draw using an ohmmeter
You check for current draw . . . amperes, not ohms
Vampire draw is an interesting choice of words . . . the correct term is parasitic draw
If you have a parasitic draw . . . and I believe you may . . . it could be any number of things. I have found the darndest things causing a draw, including control modules, radios and instrument clusters, to name just a few
That’s right, sorry, I actually worked on the F15A Eagle in the USAF (Inertial Navigation Systems), I used to be pretty good with electronics, but that was long ago. If the test reveals a draw, I’ve got no clue how to begin searching for what it is that’s causing it…my bet is a poor ground (ground strap) or the PCM ground KAM ground, but I’ll start by doing the draw test and work from there, thank you
You’re right, it’s too low, and when I turn the key, sometimes nothing at all happens (it’s not the starter laboring), I have to turn the key both far and very deliberate to start it, not the normal quick turn of a key…
I don’t know if it’s unrelated, but I have a whole host of random electrical issues that just recently occurred (same time as the misfire), my cruise control, dead, my interior lights (all of them, the ones that turn on when you open the doors, out, even the little door lights, pitch black when i open my car at night, my power mirrors are out, and 4 fuses near my steering wheel don’t respond to a test lamp, but the fuses are known good, my trunk release is out …
12.2 volts is a reasonable battery voltage reading under load, you must have the ignition on to view the information center. The value that is displayed is the voltage to the module that provides information for that display, there is a small voltage drop in the wiring to that module and the battery is under load.
Measure the battery voltage at the battery with the ignition off and the doors closed/interior lights off.
All my interior lamps just went dead recently, and the fuses are good, but won’t light up my test light, also my drivers side power seat and both power mirrors are dead, these are all controlled on the drivers side door panel.
I pulled that panel a while back to replace my door handle, maybe I pinched the harness.