So earlier today when I tried to start my car it wouldn’t start! I tried cranking her over twice and I got nothing. The battery gage needle didn’t move when I tried starting her up the few times. What’s weird is that I took my other car (parents) out to run the errands I needed to run and when I got back I thought to myself “well maybe the battery is dead and needs to be jumped” that makes sense right? So as I pull up next to my car I decided to try starting her one last time and when I put the key in and cranked her over she started right up! Not a stutter or anything! So I’m left with the feeling that maybe it could be a failing alternator ? Or possibly a loose cable or something ?
I’m gonna guess a corroded battery cable connection or loose battery post (internally) or something of the sort, but it’ll need to be looked at to truly diagnose it. Other possibilities include a worn out key cylinder.
@“the same mountainbike” hmm do you think that’s something I could have my local Autozone look at? Or is it better to just take it to a trusted mechanic ?
Alright will do… Would something like a corroded battery cable or loose post make it not work in colder weather? It was around 55 degrees this morning when I tried starting her., Just wondering because it was warmer around 1 today when she fired right up
Those don’t look particularly corroded, but it is the part not visible – the surfaces between the connector and the post – you need to clean. You’ll need a special and inexpensive battery post tool gadget to do that.
A couple of other common reasons for this symptom are a faulty neutral safety switch (for an automatic), or faulty clutch safety switch (for a manual transmission). But before going down that path, make sure the battery connections are tight and clean. If the battery is over 4 years old, 3 if you live in a hot climate, that should be high on the list of suspicions too.
@GeorgeSanJose that’s what I thought but I’ll clean 'em anyways and see what happens… Any idea what an estimate would be on what you mentioned in your comment above ? Cars an automatic btw.
Replacing a neutral safety switch isn’t usually very expensive. But a good mechanic wouldn’t replace one just b/c this symptom is occurring. They’d find out why the symptom is occurring first, the replace or adjust the part that is not working. There’s a least a half dozen common reasons for the “fails to crank” symptom.
Given the age I might suspect the neutral safety switch (allows it to start only in park and neutral) may be failing. This is referred to in more technical terms as a range selector switch.
If it acts up again try shifting into neutral to see if it starts. If so, it’s likely the switch is bad. The switch is not a major repair at all; if needed.
A fuel pump relay wouldn’t be the usual explanation for a fails to crank. That would likely be in the cranking system, so a battery, safety switch, ignition switch, starter motor, etc.
I’ll try and start her tomorrow morning and see what happens. And also give it a clean down.