Dead Audi


I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the ‘check oil pressure’ light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone afterwhich I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to ‘tighten fuel cap’, which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses…all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc… So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors. Does anyone have any idea whats going on and what this could cost me?

Dead battery due to alternator failure? I guess I’d charge the battery up first and get the alternator checked out. Low voltage can cause all kinds of weird computer problems.

What? A $130/hr Audi shop won’t diagnose your problem over the phone???

Pray that Bing’s assessment is correct…

A not completely dead, but heavily discharged battery can yield lots of odd symptoms. You aren’t getting the full volts and that will cause all the electronics to act up, the most sensitive will react first.

Your battery could have simply died on its own, they can go suddenly. Or, if the battery is still good, then it isn’t getting a good charge from the alternator. So, you need to check the battery and alternator first and most any decent shop can do this.

If both the battery and the alternator are OK and the battery has a full charge, then you might need a Audi dealer to hook up diagnostics.

And by the way, no shop is going to diagnose your car over the phone. Anybody being asked to diagnose and repair the vehicle is going to have you bring it in first.

You have a 08’ Car and probably a 07’ battery in that car, unless the battery has been replaced you will need one soon. Through the process of replacing the battery you will be re-setting the computer as well.

Gee, we diagnose on the internet all the time. Same result though-just guess work and hand holding.

@Bing it is perfectly alright for someone in cyberspace to recommend replacing an old battery.

By old I mean more than 5 years old

That is NOT a shot in the dark

That is just using good, common sense

So thanks for everything so far…turns out it was a bad battery, however, now the computer tells me I need to “depress the clutch pedal” to start the car. Im not super savvy so a little help here would be nice. Clutch pedal? Ok I know thrres a clutch pedal switch somewhere in there but why would I need to do anything to start the car after replacing the battery?

Most cars now you have to either depress the clutch or step on the brake to shift out of park. Its a safety thing so you don’t start the car in gear and it takes off on you before you realize it. So just put the clutch in and enjoy.

Were the battery connections cleaned when the new battery went in?

What does your instrument panel voltmeter read with the key in RUN position?

Not sure about a 2008, but try this:

  1. Turn the key to ON position, then OFF and immediately back to ON. With it still in ON position:

  2. Step on brake pedal, and move shift lever from PARK through all the gears and back to PARK.

3 Turn to Start and see if it cranks.

If not, you’re probably going to need to bring it to a shop that has the proper equipment to have a conversation with your ECU.

Uh, does ur car have a clutch? We’re you able to start it before without pushing on clutch?

Too late I see to recommend a battery minder that keeps the computer from resetting. Highly recommended! 2 types I have seen, one for the power point, one for obd, If you have no power to the power point when ignition is off go obd. Stupid thing, it comes with a 6 ft cord with the power point plug on the end. I converted an old printer 12v power suppy, put on a socket minding positive and negative of course, and not sure if it matters but would not use a 12v switching power supply just in case. I blew up computer part using the right voltage, but a switching power supply .

I had to depress the clutch pedal to start the engine on both my 83 Mustang and 88 Beretta. It’s a safety feature, same principle as starting a car with an auto trans in Park or Neutral. However if you have an automatic then that’s another issue.