still, no way it will last past first 100 feet if you put it there in expectations you can DRIVE it
if it is indeed one mile only, you could actually use a tow strap and ask your friend to give you a quick tow
ask him for no jack-rabbit starts and stops and be careful not to rear-end him
start your engine to make sure you have power-assist on steering and brakes
you might still need to clamp the CV shards together to avoid them banging around
If you take the broken part of the axle coming out of the transmission, and somehow clamp it down so it isnāt able to rotate, the power will be sent to the unbroken axle so the vehicle can be driven.
You are not going to be able to tow this with a truck because the part of the axle sticking out of the transmission will be whipping around down there and doing a lot of damage.
If you can clamp that part down so it doesnāt rotate as @Tester suggested, that could work but in the long run, a tow truck would be the best bet. BTW, have you checked your insurance policy? A lot of insurance policies include tow policy because it is so cheap. You need it in case of an accident where your vehicle will probably have to be towed.
Obviously youāve never threaded any pipe or fitted. Hereās an idea. Go buy a welder and weld it back together and then when you burn down the garage, explain to the newspaper how you were trying to avoid a mile tow. Itāll be a great story. Some people have kept busy so they donāt have time for crazy stuff. Other people should just check some books out of the library to wile away the hours.
@Queue
If it were my car and I had an axle broken like the one pictured in your opening post, and I needed to get it 1.3 miles to a dealership without a tow truck, I would:
Support the broken shaft with a temporary sleeve, like the one pictured below. Iād see if I could get a metal sleeve first. If not, Iād try it with a strong rubber sleeve.
Get a friend and their car to pull my car very slowly to the dealership.
I would sit in my towed car to apply the brakes as needed to prevent the tow rope from getting wrapped up in the undercarriage.
I donāt understand what the big problem is here just do it the safe way and have it towed why take a chance on doing more damage or getting someone hurt.
Iām going to get it towed, I was just testing this idea first.
Now, no welding is possible, I donāt have the tools or experience.
Now letās talk engineering/physics theory for a moment:
At the point of re-attachment with JB WELD, the pipe coupling can hold it together and not break but what will end up happening, I suspect, is that the two pieces separate horizontally, essentially dislodging OUTSIDE of the pipe coupling.
Just to reiterate a bit, it might be a good idea to verify with the dealer that the car is actually covered (by the VIN) by that Recall and that they have the part in stock.
Towed only to discover the car is not covered or the part is on back order is only going to create a bigger headache.
Last thing you need is a much higher customer pay bill, another tow to somewhere else, or a car malingering for months because of a back ordered part.
I agree that the OP should verify if this is covered or not first. Covered or not, it still needs a new axle. Where it is towed may be determined by recall applicability. The OP might choose the dealer anyway, but an informed decision is the best way to go. If this is what you meant then we agree. I didnāt take that away from your post.