Don’t know much about this battery lol. It has 500 CCA and 85 RC on the sticker on the top of the battery. Haven’t removed the battery from the car yet to see if there is other ratings. It’s strange that I can’t find a CA rating on the sticker.
I’m using this battery tester from performance tools.
Trying to do a battery test on it. I hit the enter button once on the Battery Test. I then hit the two arrow buttons and it gives me two options, STD and AGM. I select STD. It then asks me for Rating Standard. Despite clicking on the arrows multiple times, the only option it gives me is SAW. I find it odd, it doesn’t give me any other options like in this video.
I don’t know where to find the SAE rating for this battery and don’t know why it doesn’t give me other options. I also don’t the CA rating for this battery. I noticed that in that youtube video there tester was black instead of blue but not sure that it matters.
Thanks for any help in testing this battery. I get 11.77 V at the battery with a multimeter with the car off (obviously can’t start it so it’s off). Which I think is a little low.
So I ran the test and set it to SAE 500. It came back with good charge, 12.01 V.
It came back with State of Health 42 %
State of Charge 26 %
Not sure what these percentage numbers mean but they seem kind of low.
Crank no start is very unlikely to be a battery problem, if you avoid running the battery down by too much cranking.
My Honda experience may apply to your Acura. Try the key dance: key to Run for a couple seconds, back to Off, back to Run for a couple seconds… each time at Run the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds then turn off. You may hear it. Each time, fuel and fuel pressure are coming to the engine.
After a few Run-Off-Run cycles, turn the key all the way to Start.
Thanks for the help. So I put it from the 0 position (completely off) to the II position (dash comes on but does not try to start the engine). I did this about six or seven times, then turned the key to the III position (position to start the engine) and it didn’t start.
I did notice that when the dash turned on, the meter for the gas level, showed there was about half a tank.
I did hear a winding sound coming from the back of the vehicle when it was on the II position for a few seconds, not sure if that was the fuel pump or not.
Any other ideas?
I guess I could get spark plug tester. I guess that would be the next cheapest thing to try.
I think it’s cranking and no start, not really sure of the cranking sound on this car. Not too familiar with it’s sounds yet, haven’t had it for more than a week or two.
That’s the fuel pump running back there. You probably have fuel and fuel pressure at the engine, but no spark. If you spray some starter fluid ("ether’) into the air intake and try to start it, is there any hint of the engine starting up for a moment? If not, that is more evidence of a no-spark condition.
My cars are old enough to have a spark plug wire going to each plug. So it’s easy to unplug a wire and test for spark while cranking. Your car is probably different and beyond my limited expertise.
Did the car die while running or did it just fail to start without any previous symptoms last time it was driven?
Hey thanks. I don’t have starter fluid sitting around. Might be able to get some though. I do believe this car has a wire to COP design. Haven’t had it long, but looking on YouTube, looks like it does. No symptoms last time it drove, it just won’t start this morning. I’m in the rust belt area, so it’s a cold morning, probably got below freezing last night.
The battery is not the reason the car is not starting. But at 5+ years, it’s done most of its expected service. The cold weather is partly the reason for its present condition. Those voltage and state of charge figures are probably based on warmer temperatures.
The crankshaft position sensor is a possible reason for a no-spark condition.
I think a battery charger is a good thing to have, especially in cold places.
So sounds like the battery is on its way out, but not causing the problem? So trying to jump start it wouldn’t help?
Is there a way to confirm it’s the crank shaft position sensor? I guess I should try a spark plug tester on all four, and make sure I’m getting a spark? Then go from there?
Do as little cranking as possible, to avoid running the battery down too far.
I don’t know a definitive test for a crankshaft position sensor. Your car may have that and a camshaft position sensor… But a simple way to rule out no-spark and at the same time no-fuel is to try starter fluid. If the engine runs just a little, that means you have spark, and the problem is fuel delivery.
New to you car. Any chance the fuel gauge is no good and you have coincidentally run out of fuel? Also if there’s a problem with the EVAP system that prevents the fuel pump from pushing fuel to the engine, taking the gas cap off may make a diff.
I may have missed it, but have you simply tried to jump start it yet??? Have you checked the voltage while trying to crank the engine??? Engine may not be turning over fast enough…
Haven’t tried to jump start it yet. Haven’t checked voltage while trying to crank it over. From what everyone is saying, it won’t help doing this test? Because the battery as of now isn’t preventing it from starting (unless I try to crank it to much). Battery is at EOL and should be replaced eventually. Or I suppose I could get a charger and try and charge it up to get more life out of it.
But it seems like I have two routes and should do one in either order:
Put fuel into gas tank. I’m sure there’s fuel, but just to be positive the gauge isn’t broken or giving a faulty reading, pour a gallon or two of gas in.
Test for spark on all spark plugs.
If got spark then problem likely with fuel delivery system or possibly starter issue.
If no spark in a single spark plug, then replace spark plug.
If no spark on all spark plugs, it might be a bad crank shaft position sensor, cam shaft positions sensor etc.
Try spraying starter fluid
if it starts just a little, then likely have spark and it’s a fuel delivery issue.
