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Control arm?

Replaced my upper control arm due to bad ball joint. Car drove fine before. Now I have a vibration at 30mph. Goes away at 40mph. I did not move/rotate tires. Why would vibration appear? Changing arm requires unbolting top of strut to move it away from arm bolts. Easy job. Took 1/2 hr.

Any difference accelerating vs. coasting?

Alignment out?

I believe the steering wheel was off slightly compared to Before. Both inner edges of tires were down to cords. Well, tread was gone so they looked like slicks anyways. Drivers side had really bad wheel bearing but good upper joint. Pass side has good bearing but bad upper joint. I did a quick wheel adjustment to center steering wheel.

Let me know what state you are in, so I can avoid driving there… two bald tires, bad wheel bearings, bad suspension… wow!

I bought it this way last week. How former owner got car to this state was ???

Try swapping the front tires with the rears.

If the vibration is gone, the worn ball joint wore the tire in such a way where the tire creates a vibration with the new ball joint.


I had a pair of steel rims/tires with 200 miles on them handy.
I put them on the front after I did the repairs. Drove car for a few days. Seemed ok.
Than this weekend I swapped rear alloy wheels/tires front to rear. Still seemed ok.
Than I did the control arm. And that’s when the vibration showed up.
I plan on getting a pair of tires for the original alloys that I am not using now.

Are you sure you did not get one of wheels slightly off when bolting it on?

Once a tire shop managed to attach one of my wheels the way entire car was shaking like in agony at certain speed.
Getting lug nuts loosened, then carefully re-tightening in criss-cross manner made it smooth again for me, so every time I bring car to tire place now, I’m re-doing their work back home. Sometimes they would make torque to be 1.5x of the recommended one, sometimes they would not tighten it enough :frowning:

I read a bit online about Honda ball joint design where the lower ball joint is in separation/tension so if it fails, your wheel goes sideways. I wondered why there was a c-clip in area between knuckle/control arm while the oem does not have a c-clip. the tension is always pulling balljoint down into knuckle so the c-clip does nothing.

Strange. I’m used to seeing them on top. Perhaps it is used to limit the press in distance instead of a shoulder on the joint?

got different tires. Put new tires/wheels on front. Did not drive car yet. Will do test drive and see. Busy today