Clutch Bleeding question

Maintenance/Repairs
1

I replaced my slave cylinder thinking that would solve my problem, it didn’t, so I replaced the master. I had a thread about that but this question seems to be specific of its own, so I hope it’s ok I made this one. My question -

I go to bleed it and have my buddy push the clutch down, I turn the slave cylinder bleeder, close it, he let’s up, rinse and repeat. I went through an entire bottle of brake fluid and the clutch still–every few pushes–just goes straight to the floor and sticks, even though it doesn’t sound like I’m getting anymore air when I release the bleeder. Thoughts?

One thing I noticed is that the slave cylinder line seems to leak a drop every time the clutch is pressed down (or every other time). The picture I’m including shows that connection; you can still see some threads, is that supposed to be like that? I ask because it is VERY hard to turn it any tighter, so I don’t want to keep wrenching on it, especially because it wasn’t that hard to take off (though I can’t remember how far in it was).

Thanks for reading

2

Either the hydraulic fitting isn’t fully tightened into the slave cylinder, or the hydraulic fittting is cross-threaded into the slave cylinder.

Tester

3

Year, make, and model will be very helpful in answering your questions. As for the leak at the fitting, you may have a bad or damaged flare on the end of that steel line. Did you replace or repair the line? If you grab the line and wiggle it, does it move or is it rock solid? If it moves, the fitting is bottomed out and the flare is no good.

4

Sorry about that… 2006 Mazda 6 (2.3L)

I didn’t replace the line, just the cylinder. The line is solid, no give when I try to move it. It’s just super solid which is why I hesitate to twist the nut anymore. I can’t imagine it would go as far as it is if it were crossthread, but I will remove it and try again to be sure.

Should I loosen the bolts holding it onto the trans before putting it back in?