When you cycle the ignition for fault codes read the faults in the odometer, they will be displayed in P#### form like a cheap code reader.
Some technicians are spoiled from using OEM parts and don’t want to deal with the inconsistent quality of aftermarket parts, I have seen aftermarket sensors cause problems.
The brakes on the Chrysler LH cars are larger than the brakes on the Dodge/Plymouth Neon.
[quote=“the_same_mountainbik, post:18, topic:97483, full:true”]
Tester has provided excellent guidance. He’s also beautifully described why aftermarket parts are not problematic simply because they’re aftermarket parts.
I will only add that I personally have had problems with Autozone parts and would recommend going elsewhere. AZ seems in my experience to sell some junk. Try a parts supplier that supplies the local garages.
[/quote]AutoZone does not sell house-branded oxygen sensors. They mainly stock Bosch, but NGK, Denso, and some others are also available.
Some have reported problems with Bosch oxygen sensors in Chrysler vehicles. Personally, I would go with the OE brand if available. The AutoZone computer will usually indicate which brand this is.
I suspect that this is a used vehicle you have acquired so it may still have the original brake pads and rotors or at least ones that need replaced. New pads and rotors will solve this slow braking problem.
Does anybody on here know why that when my brand new o2 sensor was diconnected my car ran fine but as soon as i connected it it started to malfuction completley?
Not without viewing the oxygen sensor inputs with a scan tool. Why did you replace the O2 sensors?
Did you install the OEM sensors you asked about? Did you buy cheap universal O2 sensors without connectors?
No it wasnt a cheap one i got it from the dealership and replaced it because the old one was melted and then after i replaced it the car still didnt run right so we took it to the dealership for work, replaced the TPS and drove it around and it worked fine then when i get home i look and find out the sensor i replaced was unplugged the whole time and as soon as i plug it in and drive its messed up
The replacement oxygen sensor may be damaged or defective. If the sensor was unplugged when you picked up the car the check engine light should have been on, did you tell the service writer something is wrong?
The check engine light only came on when i plugged the sensor back in
There should be fault codes in the computer, what are they?
Before i plugged the sensor back in and it started messing up again it was popping up p1478, p0108,p0406,p0160 <- the last one is because the o2 sensor on the other side of the one that was unplugged is melted
These are sensor voltage too high faults (above 5 volts). I would look for something shorted in the oxygen sensor wiring, the 5 volt sensor feed may be shorted to the O2 heater 12 volt supply (short to voltage). Remove the O2 heater fuse (fuse “T” in the PDC) and see if the problem stops.
Would the 02 heater fuse be in the fuse box under the hood?
I think the problem is with the PCM.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0108
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0406
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0160
What are the odds that all these systems are having problems all at the same time? Slim.
Since it’s recommended to replace PCM when the DTC P1478 shows up, that’s where I’d start.
Tester
Before we replaced the computer and the tps it was throwing up about 30 codes now its just those 4 codes popping up
Before condemning the computer be sure the problem isn’t being caused by voltage back-feeding. The only fix shown for P1478 is to replace the computer but strange things can occur from wiring problems.
This vehicle ran well before you replaced the one or both upstream oxygen sensors?
DTC P0160 is for the downstream O2 sensor.
Tester
I think we have found a problem with the SOLVED button.
That makes no sense unless the PCM is bad.
Is it possible the o2 sensor wiring when i plugged it up shorted out the new computer i just put in?
Re: aftermarket O2 sensors
Are you located in Calif OP? It’s possible Calif emissions rules (read CARB) in some instances may require a specific part number for an O2 sensor replacement. There are such rules for catalytic converter replacements, only certain vendors and part numbers are allowed. Other than that possibility, I can’t think of a reason an aftermarket O2 sensor couldn’t be used for your car. If you live in Calif, suggest you verify this w/ someone at the Calif Bureau of Automotive Repairs. If an unapproved emissions related part is installed, your car might not pass the emissions testing.
Re: plugging in the O2 sensor connector causes the CEL to turn on
I’d guess unplugging the O2 sensor connector would turn the CEL on. The reason is that the O2 sensor is involved with emissions control, and that’s the primary reason for the CEL in the first place. To indicate something’s amiss in the emissions control equipment. But I can envision a situation where the O2 sensor is unplugged and the CEL doesn’t come on. For example if the engine is cold, then you unplug the sensor, it might not catch that right away. B/c the sensor doesn’t start working for a few minutes after starting the engine. So the CEL might not come on until a few minutes after starting a cold engine if the O2 sensor was unplugged.
When the O2 sensor is unplugged the computer would revert to what is called open-loop control of the fuel injectors. By that, it decides how much gas to inject based on sensors other than the O2 sensor. The engine will still run ok that way usually, but the emissions might be a little high. When you plug the O2 sensor in then, it might somehow cause the computer to go into closed loop mode. It might not then be able to control the fuel injection properly based on the O2 sensor readings, and in that case it would turn on the CEL. Sometime that problem would go away by itself. The computer might just have to learn how to control the fuel injectors with a new O2 sensor plugged in, which might take several drive cycles.