Catalytic converters

I have a 2004 Lincoln LS and the left side cat converter is bad. It looks like its been replaced already with the tape stickers still in good shape on it. What would have ruined this so fast? I recently bought this it has 82,000 miles on it. It runs good but sometimes when you step on it, it misses. I had for test it so I know its bad, and the check engine light is on. HELP!!!

If I remember correctly, emissions items like catalytic converters are supposed to be warrantied for 100K miles or ten years. Had the car been taken to a Lincoln dealer for the first cat, it should have been free, unless of course it was stolen.

That said, what is the code that is making you think it needs ANOTHER catalytic converter? There is at least one code that says something like “catalytic converter low flow” that is caused by a little $20 part with vacuum hoses going to it. Now wouldn’t you feel stupid, and/or taken if you put a catalytic converter on there again when $20 would have fixed it?

How is it determined the converter is bad? A converter code may not mean the converter is bad at all and converters/02 sensors are frequently misdiagnosed.

The miss could be an ignition miss or even a fuel delivery problem. (failing fuel pump or clogged filter)

First step is get someone like AutoZone, O’Reillys, Checkers, whomever to scan the car for codes. They will do this free. Post the results back for discussion.

If the miss is bad enough then maybe that’s what causing someone to think the converter is or was bad.

Something to consider about the miss is the fuel filter. The engineers (while having a few cold ones after work apparently) decided the best location for the fuel filter is inside the left front fender. This requires removal of the wheel and the inner fender to change.

If you change the filter what you should do is drain the filter of all gasoline and allow it to dry for an hour or so. After that time try blowing through it. If you feel any restriction at all the filter is clogged.
If this car has the original fuel filter on it then you can at least reasonably expect a fuel pump failure in the forseeable future.

I’m not psychic at all but I made this prediction on my Lincoln and less than 1500 miles later I was on the side of the road with a failed fuel pump after a clogged filter and the same prediction on my son’s ex-Lincoln LS; which left him on the side of the road about 6 months after a clogged filter.

Catalytic converters and computers are warranted by the manufacturer for 8 years/80,000 miles.

Tester

Missing will kill the converters. This car is well known for COP (Coil-On-Plug) problems. The coils have an internal high voltage breakdown problem that is difficult to test for. If you have less than 100K miles on your car, then it is covered by a no cost extended coil warranty. If you are past 100K miles, it would be cheaper for you to just replace all of the COPs and plugs. You must fix the miss problem before you go after the converter. The converter will likely not be covered by warranty because of the misfires.

It reads on my can-bus scanner: P0430, catalyst system efficiency below threshold. I took it to the ford dealer, and they put it on there machine to test it out ( it was not missing at that time when you step on it). They checked it out and said the left (drivers) side canverter was not working. I looked under the car and could tell it had been replaced with the stickers still in good shape. They told me it would not effect anything but the emmissions test. Well at some point now it is missing ( cutting out ) when you get on it. What do you think???

It reads on my can-bus scanner: P0430, catalyst system efficiency below threshold. I took it to the ford dealer, and they put it on there machine to test it out ( it was not missing at that time when you step on it). They checked it out and said the left (drivers) side converter was not working. I looked under the car and could tell it had been replaced with the stickers still in good shape. They told me it would not effect anything but the emissions test. Well at some point now it is missing ( cutting out ) when you get on it. What do you think???

It reads on my can-bus scanner: P0430, catalyst system efficiency below threshold. I took it to the ford dealer, and they put it on there machine to test it out ( it was not missing at that time when you step on it). They checked it out and said the left (drivers) side converter was not working. I looked under the car and could tell it had been replaced with the stickers still in good shape. They told me it would not effect anything but the emissions test. Well at some point now it is missing ( cutting out ) when you get on it. What do you think???

The rear oxygen sensor is generating the P0430 code, not the converter. I would replace that part first…

And YES, the COP’s Ford uses on these engines are very delicate things…You don’t want to EVER wash the engine…If it’s missing, force the issue by holding it at WOT for as long as you can, until the CEL comes on… This will set more codes relating to which cylinder(s) are misfiring. New COPS are around $69 a pop. Used ones are available on e-Bay… Change the plugs too…(carefully)…

Thanks, what is WOT and CEL?

WOT = Wide Open Throttle, CEL = Check Engine Light

Ok, I took it back to ford to recheck on there equipment, heres what they said:82995 IDS set up EEC test P0430 ran dcl monitor bank 2 cat monitor mirroring the o2 sensor ran pin point test the bank 2 cat converter needs replaced not working and the PCM needs reprogrammed road test ran power balance no missfires at this time checked mode 6 no missfires in history did not verify miss on accel could be a trans concern. So now what should I do next??? Thanks 3.0 L V-6

I have 82,900 now

If the cars is running OK, why do you need to do anything??

It is running ok, so I think I will wait until something more is happening. I have run into other people that just let the check engine stay on. Then when it comes time to do the emissions, I’ll turn it off. Thanks all.

You should not ignore the engine light and drive on. In addition to the light telling you that something is malfunctioning, ignoring it will also allow other more serious problems should they develop to go undetected. And in this case the cause of the light is in itself causing damage. Read some of the posts here, especially those from OK4450 and Tardis, for ideas on some of the problems that can occur using the theory of ignoring the light. And much more serious problems could occur undetected without the light to alert you.

Fix the problem. The problem is not the light. The light is just the messenger.