'95 Chevy S-10 4x4 4.3 V6 TBI. I posted before about having the hanger break off the converter pipe causing my muffler pipe to crack from fatigue. I’ve given up on just replacing the pipe hanger. There’s no clamp-on hangers available that fit and if I rig it with wire, I know it won’t hold up long. I’m going to just replace the converter along with the whole exhaust.
I’ve never done this before. The converter is welded on so I have to cut it off. I can buy a direct fit converter from Rock Auto for $150. Is it possible to cut the pipe with a hacksaw or am I nuts? And does the new direct fit converter clamp over the existing pipe or does it have to be welded? I am clueless about how the new converter goes on.
Thanks for any help.
Anybody have any experience replacing converters out there?
The converter should be removable without cutting. There shoud be flanges front and rear. It’s possible someone in the past went to Midas, who is known to weld the components together.
I wouldn’t try to cut the pipe without a cutting wheel. A hacksaw would be an excercise in exhausting frustration.
A direct fit replacement will not clamp over the existing pipe. You can, however, install a clamp on fitting designed to mate two flangeless pipes…if you have sufficient free length on the system.
The front is welded on with no flange, it just has a rear flange. I’ve had it since new, so this is how it came from the factory. I guess I’ll have to pay someone to install the converter. I’m trying to fix this as cheap as possible as money is tight at the moment. The truck is in nice shape though and I’d like it done right so the exhaust will hold up without any future headaches.
It sounds like the front of the converter includes a pipe section that connects all the way up to the exhaust manifold. If so, a direct fit replacement converter should also come with that pipe along with its connection to the exhaust manifold. Of course, it will also have the short rear section of pipe and flange. No cutting should be necessary with a direct fit aftermarket replacement.
I’m working on a friend’s Pontiac Montana van and will have to remove the converter to gain better access to another part I need to replace and that is how its converter is designed. Actually, I’m working on it next weekend but I’ve already been under it to size up the job.
The photo of the direct fit converter shows a short 3 or 4" pipe in the front with no flange or fittings, and the rear shows a longer pipe with a flange, which is just what my original looks like.
I could just hang a sign on my car, “Please steal my catalytic converter”. Would save me some labor anyway…
I did some checking and it turns out that there are numerous direct fit cats for that vehicle and most are not flanged on both ends. I expected the header end to have a flange at thevery least as Alan suggested. Some models appear to slip over the pipe, others need welding. The only way to tell is with the VIN number.
I stand corrected.
If you put a sign out there for free no one will take it. But if you put a sign saying $100…someone will steal it.