Car starts but stalls immediately - intermittent

stalling
audi
quattro

#1

Car catches 100% of time and revs normally for 1-2 seconds, then dies. No response when accelerator is pressed.



Car is 1988 Audi Quattro w/>350,000 miles on orig. engine; has always had synthetic oil and runs great when running. This is only problem and we hope it’s not terminal. Seeking list of possible solutions.



Problem has been “fixed” a couple of times, but recurs.


#2

I have a 2001 Audi A6 2.8L and this has just started happening to me, at the worst possible time, in fact.

I just drove to Fort Drum, NY for a PCS relocation and the day after I arrived, this problem starts… almost exactly the same as the original poster describes.

The car will start, run for 3-4 seconds, then just die. Pressing the accelerator does not keep it running for much longer, if at all. The engine seems like it is starved for fuel, yet it will start again. I was thinking fuel pump issue.

Any persons knowledgeable about this able to help?


#3

For both of you, the first thing that I would do is to replace the fuel filter. If that does not help, have the output of your fuel pump checked.


#4

Check and clean the MAF.


#5

What specifically was done to the car to “fix” it?
Is there any correlation to temperature, weather, etc?

A good starting point in diagnosing any engine problems on these cars is to check for good spark, check the main fuel pressure AND control fuel pressure.

If these are ok, then make sure the rubber boot from the fuel distributor to the throttle body has no air leaks. Make sure the metering plate in the fuel distributor moves freely through its entire range of motion without the slightest bit of binding. Remove the fuel injectors from the head, jump the terminals on the fuel pump relay socket to make the pump run and try moving the plate again while observing the flow of fuel from the injectors.

These are just a few things that come to mind. Since the engine actually turns over for a second or two, I don’t think there’s a problem with the cold start valve or the fuel accumulator.


#6

1988 is that going to be a CIS car? I am so glad it can’treach out and grab me. Many possibilites if it is CIS. Post injection type please.


#7

Hi, First poster back with good news. Finally got the car back running like a top! It was “airbound.” I’m reporting secondhand and apologize for using non-technical language. I’m told there were air bubbles in the fuel distributor. Regarding the injection system, it’s mechanical, not electronic. The mechanic who finally solved the problem joked about being younger than the car. He bled the system and we’ve driven it on a few short and long trips (just to make sure). No problems.

It’s such a simple thing I hope this helps the owner of the 2001 Audi, but because of the injection system, I’m not sure it will.

Thanks to all for your input - it sounds as if the poster who suggested checking around the fuel distributor was on the right track.


#8

The CIS injection system could be refered to as mechanical,not mechanical in the sense that it has a belt driven injection pump but mechanical in the sense that it meters fuel based upon the position of a “valve” in that fuel distributor that had the air in it. There are many expensive things to go wrong with CIS.


#9

Same start and die problem with my older Honda, but after reading elsewhere about possible causes, I tried jiggling the key in the ignition and finally got it running by pushing the key in further than usual. My wife usually drives this car, and has several keys on the ring with the car keys. i have read somewhere that weight on the ignition key can cause starting problem, but I am not sure this was the cause.


#10

kind of similar–

BMW 740il 94? just cranking, won?t start, after replaced 1 ft. hose under reservoir by shop.
Auto mechanics Replaced 1 ft. hose under reservoir, put on engine cover while running, drove 10 blocks and parked, 5 minutes later, won?t start. AAA came and tried jump, no luck. Towed back to shop.
Mechanics tried jump, also failed. He did found the battery connector under back seat loose. He did some connector twist ( 2 minutes) around engine block and engine started. He think my battery weak, and kindly loan me the new battery while recharge my battery( Interstate). I did tried to restart car few times, all ok.
Then I drove 10 blocks to a museum, an hour later, it just cranking, won?t start again.
History:
BMW 740il 94? has 150,000 miles, always start strong.
When ?coolant temp? sign on last week, I came to this shop. He checked and replaced waterpump, then
Replaced heater hoses-Octopus host and 1 ft. hose under reservoir-Right side, drove 20 blocks parked, still leaking coolant.
Back to shop, Mechanics replaced 1 ft. hose under reservoir- Left side, then Starting problem pursist?
Thank you