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Car Repair Bill - Am I Getting Ripped Off?

Attached is a bill that I just received from the dealership for my 2012 Altima Coupe. I would really appreciate if someone could let me know if the prices seem fair. I normally don’t get work done at the dealership. I really appreciate any insight. Thanks

Go somewhere else.I have never seen an estimate that is so poorly done.It should include parts and labor rate etc,etc…I advise you to find a good independant mechanic to do the work.

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Please explain why you went to the dealer.
Did you go for an oil change?
Did you go for the inspection?
Did you go because you had the “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon” light illuminated?
Did you go because the car was not performing properly?

I’m trying to understand the chain of events and why the dealer did what they did.
Some or nearly all the work could be justified, but the prices seem outrageous to me, but then again, I do my own DIY.

Everything done on that bill probably would have cost me $100 to $200 and an hour or two of my time, if it was all necessary.
CSA
:palm_tree: :sunglasses::palm_tree:

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Thank you. I appreciate the insight.

Thanks for the reply! I received a flyer from my local Nissan dealership for a free oil change. My service engine light had come on about a week ago for an issue I did not know about. I took my car in and they saw my service engine light was on and decided to run the diagnostics on it. After the oil change they provided me with this estimate if I wanted the work done.

The prices seem about right for dealer work. The question is whether you need the work. Get a second opinion from an independent shop you trust. Ask then to report the OBDII codes associated with the CEL. It might turn out that the dealer is spot on with the air boot replacement, MAF sensor, and induction cleaning with respect to the CEL. I’m not clear on the ECM reprogramming. Did they give you a reason for each line item where it isn’t obvious?

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You show a picture that you say is a bill ( Something to be paid ) then you say it I an estimate . Which is it? If estimate just find an independent shop and get a second opinion . Those prices might be normal for your area but a 2012 does not need dealer shop.

From the last @greenbayrod12_162763 message and from the picture, it is QUOTE, not the BILL.

I would suggest that air boot is likely indeed may need replacement ($137, but I would confirm that independently), throttle plate likely needs cleaning ($165?), but replacing MAF is likely a throwing part on the issue ($426??), I would assume that under $10 MAF cleaner fluid will do its work just fine.

overall, low-effort/low-cost repair for DIY-er, most likely under half cost quoted by the dealer at indie shop, definitely worth a second opinion

Was there a check-engine light before you got the estimate? From what I can gather there seems to have been two error codes P0101 and P001.

The prices are about right for Nissan parts done at the dealership. BUT, I question if all that work really needs to be done. You are doing the right thing to ask here before doling out a bunch of cash and the best advice came from @jtsanders and @thegreendrag0n, get a second opinion.

Car repair is a business transaction and getting multiple quotes and opinions is just good business practice, whether from mechanics, doctors or contractors, second opinions and quotes are standard practice. We cannot really provide you with second opinions very well as we don’t have “eyes on” the vehicle, but we can help you with advice and will be happy to do so.

If the induction boot is leaking air, that throws off the MAF sensor, so that repair must be done. Once it is done, then the vehicle needs to be driven for at least three drive cycles and then a re-evaluation done IF the Service Engine Light comes on again. If it doesn’t, then I’d say you are good to go.

The P0001 code is very rare for a non direct injected engine. I wouldn’t worry about it for now.

Thank you everyone! You have all been so helpful. I think I’ll take it to a local shop and see what they say.

:palm_tree: :sunglasses::palm_tree:

Yes the light was on before taking it for the oil change.

The prices don’t seem too out of line…But an independent should be able to do it cheaper and as well or better then the dealer. The only question is - are they legit. Seems like they are.

Seems fair to me. If the CEL and diagnostic codes are gone then there is no problem.

So, the diagnostic code interpretation is meant to be seen as a list of possible causes.

All of the things listed under p0101 in that estimate are possible causes of the code.

Here’s the thing: A torn induction boot can throw the P0101 code, and they’ve apparently visually verified that it is, in fact, torn.

So the proper action is to replace the induction boot and see if the code goes away. The proper action is not to treat the list of possible causes as must-replace parts.

That doesn’t mean that one of those other parts isn’t bad, but it does mean that they should replace the known bad part and find out rather than replacing the MAF sensor and doing the induction cleaning and reprogramming.

Ordinarily if I got a diagnosis of a torn boot I’d let the shop replace it unless they charged me a diagnostic fee so that they get some money for their efforts on my behalf. But in this case, they’re loading you up with so much potentially unnecessary work that they don’t deserve your money. Either replace it yourself (it’s easy) or take it elsewhere.

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@greenbayrod12_162763- why are they charging you $45.66 for a free oil change?

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This was just an estimate of everything before they applied the free oil change discount. There was no charge for the oil change.

Thanks shadowfax. I think I will try replacing the induction hose and sensor myself by watching YouTube videos. I really don’t know much about repairing cars but it doesn’t look too difficult for either of these from what I’ve watched so far.

Don’t do the sensor. Just do the hose. IF it still throws codes after you do the hose, THEN start looking at the other possible problems.

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