Car is knocking

I have a 2006 Ford fusion it started to knock. Well I changed the rod bearings which needed it and did not help. My crank shaft was not scratched I did the penny test. With this car there are pretty much no parts that I can get and no book to help me. I only have 63000 miles on it. What could this knocking be now?

Having only the description “knocking” I’m not sure how anyone should be able to speculate. The term knocking gets used a lot to refer to lots of different kinds of things. In automotive terms it normally refers to incorrect ignition processes - which won’t have much to do with rod bearings. So you’d need to specify what you mean along with the conditions under which this knocking occurs.

First off, did you use an appropriate year penny? BIG difference there.

Second - what on earth did you do to this car to necessitate new journals?

Third - have you taken it in to get it diagnosed? This could be a VERY simple problem that you’re making FAR more serious by neglecting. That $70 diagnostic fee might save you thousands. I suspect this car has been seriously neglected/abused and will become a money-pit. It’s one thing to ignore a noise for awhile if you know the source and the consequences of leaving it alone (like my Camry with noisy, but tight strut mounts)… its another to drive a car that’s knocking and not get it fixed.

As for the availability of parts - nonsense - you can get anything you need… maybe not aftermarket at Autozone, but the dealer can get you anything - 100% guaranteed.

I have to agree eraser…Was this car abused??

That’s awfully low miles for a car to need this kind of repairs. Who knows what else is damaged. Could even be a piston knock.

Isn’t “the penny test” for tires? how does it apply to engine internals? You say the rod bearings needed replacement, what did you see in regards to the rod bearings that indicated they needed replacement, did you make an attempt to find out why the rod bearings needed replacement at such low mileage? are we being trolled?

Re: the penny test…

If you suspect you have a scratched journal, a classic method for testing if the scratches necessitate replacement is to take a copper penny (it MUST be an old, true copper penny, not one of these newer plated ones) and rub the edge at a 45 degree angle across the surface of the journal. If ANY copper is left in the scratches, they’re bad enough that the journal needs to be replaced.

Main bearings perhaps?

There have (in general) been far more problems with chain tensioners and the like than there have with plain bearings. Even the characteristic short0-skirt piston slap can sometimes be heard and which has no detrimental effect on longevity in the slightest. My pocket-rocket 1000cc yamaha motorcycle has practically no-skirt pistons and it rattles pretty loudly under no-load.

Assuming the rod bearings were just very worn and none actually failed, I’d guess a visual inspection of the crank shaft for damage is good enough in the short run. For all of the work associated with rebuilding the block, most often it is a good idea to at least cut the crankshaft to make it true and then install oversized bearings. If a bearing failed it’s best to replace the crankshaft and install the appropriate, original size bearings.
Other damage to your block may have occured as well.

You need to remember what the sound was before you replaced the rod bearings and decide if the sound has changed at all. Is it less noises, maybe not two sounds but now only one? Does the knocking happen only at load, say driving uphill, or does it happen all the time?

I did find a very pricy repair manual.
I’d do a little more searching if I were you. But it’s a start.
You should still be able to get parts for this car pretty easily.

My opinion on that rebuild option is to never do it…I’ve done plenty of them myself on Diesel and the like but the engine in a Fusion is throw away or should we say, a recyclable—much like an empty aluminum can. If indeed the crank did require grinding, then something more serious happened than normal wear…the crankshaft never wears under normal circumstances (neither should the bearings). Anyhow, I think a well done exchange engine --perhaps from Ford–would be the best option…hell, drive it until the crank breaks, if you think its coming to that.